Friends, Use the dialogue at the bottom of the page to leave a comment if there is anything I can help you with OR if there is a problem with the website. Note: I do not receive notifications for new comments so I need to check periodically and will reply when I can. The last few months of comments appear below and the older ones disappear automatically. Thank you. – JRB
John,
I’ve been saddle hunting for years, and have played around a little with ascenders and even DRT with a blake’s hitch but always found it cumbersome and not ideal for most of my hunting situations. I stumbled upon your YouTube channel last summer and soaked it all in. This past season I hunted almost exclusively with SRT and DSRT using your friction hitches and loved it; I’m definitely not going back.
Here’s my question: I’m using Ape Canyon’s Ghillie rope but find it to be a little stiff and hard to pull through the garda, as well as easily tangled on descent with a munter. Do you think those issues are related to my technique, or would a different rope help? Thanks for all your great information.
Jeff
Jeff, I apologize for the delay in responding. I get a ton of spam comments on the website and only sift thru them about once a week. The short answer is that a stiff rope will require more effort to flow thru a Garda. Also, the size of the carabiner has an effect: I used to use a Carabiner with a 1.25″ inside dimension before discovering the larder ones with a 1.5″ inside dimension. If you have the larger carabiners, then you could consider a different rope. In SRT, the Ghillie works fine. In DSRT, the 2nd strand makes it more crowded and increases the effort as well. Another factor is that if you are allowing your leg to hang in the legloop while you raise the lines, that will affect the effort. Raise your leg as you pull up the lines. I would try those ideas before investing in a new rope, but yes, a different rope will help. Very soon, Ape Canyon will be launching their new website and selling a new 8mm or 10mm Rougaroo rope. Its fantastic and bends really well. Are you on a DSRT system?
John,
All this past season I climbed/hunted with your friction hitches and loved it. Definitely not going back. Tried the Ape Canyon Ghillie but found it a bit stiff. Hard to pull through the Garda and tends to twist on descent with munter. Would any of the other ropes on your rope page help me with those issues? Thanks for all your great information.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff, I replied to your other comment. Sorry for the delay; I was out of town for a week.
I just posted a comment…I think. It’s not showing up among the other comments on this page. My hope is that you will receive my message and perhaps have to approve comments before they are visible on this page. However, if you did not receive my message, please let m know so I can repeat myself. I’m another knot/tree climbing YouTuber and I simply wish to introduce myself to you. I have created, tested and developed over 100+ new, original friction hitches and knots of all different types. I love your channel and your original knots and hitches. I also demonstrate arborist style climbing systems in my videos. You and I are basically the same person! I hop that someday I will get as much viewership as you do! Please send me an email at the attached email address if you are willing to take some time to network with another like-minded YouTuber! I would be honored and, by becoming allies, we can perhaps someday help one another out, discuss knots and climbing systems/devices, and maybe even do some kind of collaboration at some point! Thank you for taking the time to read this message. Sorry if it’s a duplicate. Take care, John. My channel website is linked in the “Website” field. Please check my channel out if you haven’t already so you can see just how similar our interest, passion, and talent levels are for friction hitches and knots and tree climbing! =-D
Sorry for the delay in replying. I checked out your channel and subscribed. I will be reaching out to you. It’s fantastic to make these kinds of connections. Cheers.
I have been following you for the past year. I appreciate your focus on safety!! I am older than some saddle hunters, 74, but think I can develop the skill to clime safely.
What is the best rope and cord for DRT.
Thank you. My favorite Ropes and Cords are on the dedicated pages for those items. If you mean DSRT, that is spelled out in detail on the Rope page. If you mean an MRS (moving rope system, previously called DRT), you will want a rugged rope which can take the abrasion of the friction you will encounter. I no longer use nor recommend MRS/DRT. I used it for 12 years, but now, I find it inferior to DSRT.
Hello John,
I’ve been playing with SRT and DSRT with 523 JRB ascenders, garda hitch footloop with redundancy (best friend on lower bridge) and I’ve also tried hitch climbing per https://youtu.be/pJKZ_-cNNmc?si=ZXBigClev1ru8jPp
I find all of these to work very well and I keep getting better with them but I find that one of 2 ascenders occasionally slips in DSRT (which I can fix; no big deal) but it’s getting me to notice there isn’t a good redundancy baked into the hitch climbing method and it has me wondering about the possibility of an upper ascender slipping down and breaking the ascender tied to the garda, effectively creating a potential freefall risk.
I do enjoy the flexibility of the ascender on the garda but I’m also now critically aware that it seems less safe from a redundancy standpoint.
Any thoughts on baking in a redundancy in case of upper ascender failure (e.g. slippage)?
Regards,
Jeff Michaud
Jeff, this is a really astute observation. I have been working on this and it is one of the primary motivations for my recent work on the Hedden Knot and the One Handed Hedden Knot. Short answer is this: If the friction hitch in hitch climbing were to fail suddenly and completely, letting go of the carabiner, this is a problem. A solution is to put a Hedden knot above the hitch as a backup. If the lower hitch fails, the Hedden catches us. Then we need to make sure we have a route to ground planned. The Hedden can’t be broken under load, but we can either lengthen our bridge and use our foot to get on a munter on our 2nd bridge OR we can just step down the rope backwards. For me, I find the likelihood of a total hitch failure to be statistically improbable. However the possibility that it is slipping is very real. For that scenario, I would whip out a Prusik Loop or Longhorn loop and put in a one handed backup. I will be demonstrating that this season. Make sense? Videos:
https://youtu.be/jfWlkJjmUPo?si=JybvqEtHT3edaA3n
https://youtu.be/TJdzsvfoi0k?si=ymEmpO96i5t9Stgg
Hello John,
Thanks for the reply. Yes, it makes sense; I’ll think about that one some more and I’m looking forward to your next video coverage.
I might experiment with a variant of hitch climbing that makes use of the garda hitch in its usual DSRT configuration but with ropes tucked away in carabiners, one rope tail on each side in lineman’s loop like with the hitch climbing method.
I’m wondering if the garda would respond well to only pulling one rope at a time rather than both at the same time (for the hitch climbing side we’re climbing on).
I like the idea of having a consistent approach to all three ways of climbing and I also like the idea of seeing the garda behave in the usual way with respect to the redundancy and with completely arresting a potential freefall situation in case of upper hitch slippage.
I appreciate the help John.
Regards,
Jeff Michaud
Thx Jeff. I always try to approach every situation conservatively. Yes the Garda works on a single or a double rope, but I did not previously employ it in Hitch climbing because its not reversible… if something were to slip above the Garda, self recovery is a more technical process. This season, I will be showing how we can take the same single loop Garda hitch footloop that we use in DSRT and SRT and employ it in Hitch climbing. Weaved into that presentation, I will show how to recover if we need to.
Hello Sir,
I really like your website and the way you do everything from the standpoint of safety. I have been putting hang on stands up on public land for over 15 years. I think that this method of hunting would increase my ability to put meat in the freezer for my family. I have to questions. First, do you think I can use a standard 4point safety harness can be used for saddle hunting?
My second question is do you believe that saddle hunting is as safe, if practiced and used with proper equipment, as using a hang on stand with screw in steps? I’m a 56 year old hunter and want to keep doing this as long as I’m able. I just want to be safe!
Thank you,
Thomas
Hi Tom. My responses are as follows:
1. Probably not. A saddle is designed for comfort and safety. A good saddle distributes our weight across our entire butt and hips to maximize our comfort. A safety harness is designed for fall arrest. It typically has leg straps and are intended to catch us such that we can be promptly rescued. If you have a harness, it’s simple enough to test it out by tying it to a tree (at ground height) and stay put for 4 hours. I am willing to bet you will be uncomfortable in 30 minutes.
2. Safety for a climbing hunter boils down to ensuring 2 things. 1) We can’t fall out of the tree. 2) We can’t get stuck in a tree. Most saddle hunters are not safe by that definition. And most hunters on sticks and ladders or steps and stands are also unsafe. The test is simple. (I am not suggesting you actually DO this test unless you know the consequences. My systems always pass this test.) Start your climb and at several point during the climb, just let go with your hands and jump sideways to get your feet off of whatever they were on. This simulates conditions where our hands slip or our feet slip or our footing is lost or our footing collapses, all in one test. Most hunters are going to be hurt doing this, because they are not tied in and if they are tied in, they are not managing slack. If they are tied in, they might get stuck in a tree. A climber on steps wearing a Fall Arrest Harness is going to have trouble reaching and breaking the Prusik knot on their lifeline. And so to answer your question, I believe that my climbing methods, which all involve a saddle and a low slack tie in to the tree, 100% of the time are all completely safe. If you have not watched the Safety Playlist on my channel, I strongly encourage it. Understanding the 10 rules and the 10 misconceptions could save your life. Link: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLETL-PceEXkYM3YUhgIlIYCiP4N4YORGQ&si=zTy-XzPJfIgButoi
Hi John – Thank you for all you do.
I am a retired climber and tree company owner, and people who know me definitely consider me to be a knot geek. I think I’ve read everything on your site, but I’ve seen no reference to tying the Hunter’s in the simplest way I know of:
Overlap both ends, form them together into a turn, and then drop each end through the center of the turn in opposite directions. Snug and dress into a nicely finished Hunter’s.
I had assumed you know this. Yes?
Hi Richard,
First, I appreciate and respect your experience level and background. I am certain you know what you are talking about. Yes, when I got started, I learned a lot of different ways to tie it and wound up using my own. Link below. In most applications in which I tie it, specifically to close the ends of a friction hitch, there is one strand coming from above and one from below and I want to get it tied in a specific location. I also feel it’s easier for me when I want tie it super compact, like inside the Compact JRB Ascender. The other reason I tie it this way is because I find it easy to tie the Zeppelin bend in a similar manner. I will cover that in a future video. But the bottom
line is that the ‘easiest’ or ‘best’ way to tie a knot is in the eye of the tyer. In the end, as long as we come up with the same knot, we are good. Cheers to you. And thank you. – jrb https://youtu.be/GYsrcMPpcVw?feature=shared
Would like to send you a picture by email of a hitch variation.
Thanks Ken, I emailed you. – jrb
John,
Fantastic content and really appreciate your hard work and perspective.
Very interested in the JRB cinch and wondering if an alternative would also be applicable. I’ve seen several arborist videos of movable canopy anchors that use a rappel ring threaded on the the rope. Then a loop knot (ex. figure 8 on bight) tied onto the end of the rope, is passed through the rappel ring and pinned/toggled with a locking carabiner. This system seems simpler than tying the rappel ring to the rope. Also in this system, what are you thoughts on a sewn eye at the rope end being used instead of the loop knot.
Thanks much and I look forward to you response.
Regarding your first question, I believe I understand what you are describing. Although I cannot be 100% sure, it sounds viable. But it does not sound like the retrieval would be that easy. I encourage you to safely experiment, but with your feet on the ground. Regarding your second question, yes a sewn eye with a ring on it will work too of course.
Thanks for all of your content. I have a couple of questions:
1) I assume that your primary and secondary bridges are considered life safety. What should be the min. specs for building these? I ask because it looks like small cord material for some of yours.
2) Do you recommend captive eye carabiners for your primary and secondary bridge connections? If so, is the GridLock your favorite?
Thanks.
Yes, the bridges are considered a life safety component. I have a couple of bridge designs published. In all cases, the bridge is constructed of either a single strand of climbing rope or a double strand of accessory cord. I would expect the rope to be good for at least 24kn (or a doubled cord with half of that strength), as that is the typical strength of our carabiners. I do like a captive eye carabiner, or anything we can fashion to accomplish the same result. For example, we can purchase rubber devices to transform any carabiner into what is effectively a captive eye. The Gridlock is a nice carabiner and it was my favorite a couple of years ago, specifically the Magnetron, but I have moved on and am using a swivel carabiner on my main bridge and a large DMM on my 2nd bridge. See the page on Carabiners for specific recommendations, which can change over time.
Greetings from Northern Ontario, Canada
Good day John,
As a hunter who has recently started saddle hunting I have found your videos to be extremely helpful. Since I won’t be saddle hunting this year, due to a recent hip replacement, I am working on assembling the best climbing system to suit my needs. I’ve just watched your video on the adjustable double bridge mod, and have now installed it on my saddle (finally after almost two years I can tie the JRB ascender quickly and efficiently, thanks to lots of practice and muscle memory). I am a bit confused, however, as to how your climbing rope is rigged. Video shows two ropes. You attach your upper bridge to one rope and your lower bridge to the other, that leads me to the question of how the system is rigged and anchored. Are both ropes wrapped around the base of the tree? Is there a video on how to rig this system? Look forward to hearing from you. Joe
Good luck with the recovery. My channel has content on multiple climbing methods including DSRT, SRT and JRB Hitch Climbing. You seem to be referring to DSRT on this playlist: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLETL-PceEXkbFvJsWu-N-iXSTCuzJnr0Z&si=vkkKb8EL3r7kaJ7b
One of the videos shows how to rig the rope for ascent. When I made it, I was still using the double meech and not my newer friction hitches, but that detail is not pertinent. And to be clear, both bridges attach to both strands.
https://youtu.be/pUZAoP8O450?si=pYJU_RhP-0I4zkev
Thank you for your response. I think I may not have conveyed my question correctly. I was referring to the adjustable double bridge mod 1. I’ve watched it several times now and believe I may have found the answer to my question. The video does show two different ropes. I believe that you were climbing on an SRT using the upper bridge. The second rope, I believe, is actually your tether line, that you attach your lower bridge to. I came to this conclusion when within the video there is a momentary camera pan up the tree showing what I believe to be the second rope attached to the tree. Would I be correct in this assumption?
Regards,
Joe
I am not certain which video you are referring to, but when I am climbing SRT or DSRT, the upper bridge is connected to the friction hitch(s) and the lower bridge is connected to the Garda Hitch footloop which has an extra loop I call my ‘best friend’. This short video shows them both pretty well. https://youtube.com/shorts/4vZWCDcNYCY?feature=shared
Just wanted to say thankyou for the helpful videos and techniques. I’ve really enjoyed the DSRT system. Note for guys who are on the heavier side. The 523 ascender hitch works very well if you are a bit heavier. I’m 6-1, 230lbs and had trouble breaking the agile hitches consistently. However, using the 523 ascender hitch is much easier. I actually added a top loop so technically it would be a 623 hitch but it works very well. Also, using the Super Munter Hitch worked better for me being a bit larger.
Excellent feedback. Curious what rope/cord combination you were using in your system?
I am using the 9.5mm ghilie rope with 7mm Sterling cord combo. Should be the same setup as seen in many of your recent videos.
ok. I will drop you an email and maybe you can reply with a picture of your hitches just so I can actually see them!
Hey John,
I happened to chance upon your website in my quest for quality info on tree climbing. And from all that I learnt from there, I could successfully set up the whole system and climb a tree. It was delightful. But I wonder if I would be writing to you if it was just about that.
Having tried the system, I felt that I had mastered tree climbing till the next day when I suddenly found myself hanging some 15 feet above the ground as one of the longhorn agiles had somehow braked hard due to uneven loading and won’t release during descent. And there was no help in sight.
It was sheer providence that I had watched you video on self rescue the previous night and could retrieve the situation by devising a slip knot foothold and release the friction knot.
I am in a way glad that it happened early in my tree climbing journey, as I have learnt many a lessons from this episode.
My heartfelt gratitude for sharing your life’s experience and wisdom so selflessly. You are doing amazing work.
Thank you for putting it all out there…🙏
‘Glad to know you got out of your situation. Although I don’t know the details of your system, I want to remind you that when I execute an SRT or DSRT climb, the Garda Hitch footloop is always connected to my redundant bridge via the “Best Friend” loop. If you do not have that, please add it. This ensures that we always have two independent connections to the rope and can use that in so many potential situations.
Hello, thank you for all your work! I’m an old out of practice recreational tree climber who’s taking up saddle hunting at 38 yo for the first time. I’m starting out using my New Tribe tree climbing saddle. My only reason for the comment is to mention a minor typo- in the DSRT videos page you mention 9’=84″ and it don’t. Thanks again!
Thanks… I did find that exact error on the page named Bridge, and fixed it, but I did not find it on the DSRT page. Let me know if you see anything which is still incorrect.
Hi John,
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, expertise, and most importantly… your time. I have learned so much from your videos and website.
I have a question/scenario, I hope this isn’t a repeat.
If I put a throwball and preset over a 35 ft limb, climb up and put my platform at 20ft. I stand 6 feet tall and would like my tether to be “anchored” off at forehead height for comfort. How to I tie off my anchor at 26 ft ? Is there a technique to tie an anchor to the tree at 26ft that captures my main line so my angle is more comfortable while still staying on my main line so I can have a safety to ground?
Thanks again!
Thanks for your comment and question. You have a few options: 1. Bring a tether and transfer your weight onto it. (I don’t like that option unless you are also keeping the climbing line attached.) 2. You could bring either a small rope or a cam-buckle strap and simply use it to squeeze your climbing lines against the tree at whatever height you like, and stay on them. 3. Use the other end of your system and transfer onto that. In the video (JRBUS Part 3; Climb Past the Branch) I demonstrate how this can be done, although in that scenario, I want to go higher, not stop lower. The common part is that we can use the long end of the rope and a Longhorn Agile hitch and transfer onto it. The choice of an anchor is up to you. You will also want to plan your rappel such that if you are leaving a paracord preset in the original crotch, you will need to transfer back to your original rope position before coming down. https://youtu.be/9TM5_09fmkY?feature=shared
Thanks John. I prefer option 2, squeezing the main line to the tree. I don’t prefer option 1, transfering to a short tether while staying on main line because the main line will potentially be in the way while hunting/shooting. Option 3 is a great alternative, however I would lose my ability to get to the ground, unless I used a super long rope to start (100ft).
Thanks for the thorough response!
All of your content is great. I recently installed several floating anchors but find the friction to be too great unless optimal angle, tree size and bark texture is right. Nearly all of mine are unusable due to those factors. I found attaching a second ring with another piece of cord hanging from the same tie point as the first (or spacing them out a bit if the tree is very large) eliminates all of those problems and the rope can be raised standing directly underneath. Paracord through left ring, around tree, through right ring and back down. This also removes most of the load put on the cord holding the rings and the maverick hitch ends up between the rings directly against tree. Thanks for your innovation!
Dan, When rigging, experiment with your standing position… For example, it can help to take a few steps left/right depending on what part of the anchor is getting set. Also, I will often hold the slack end of the rope gently in one hand instead of letting it hang. That helps the ring come away from the tree. As for your idea, that is very clever. I will need to try that. We wind up with two rings under the anchor… I just need to prove to myself that they don’t affect its grip. And what do we call it? The Double Ring Floating Anchor? Dan’s Floating Anchor? You thought of it… you name it!
That makes sense, I do notice that now thinking back and moving to the side with an angle definitely helped. In the thicker areas I had trouble with, I wasn’t able to move away from the base of the tree due to the nearby branches. Would love to see your analysis of it! The Double Float has a good ring to it. Or depending on your testing Floating Anchor 2.0. Also curious what you come up with for an attachment knot where the rings hang. For the second ring, because I was adding to an existing anchor, I wove a double girth hitch.
I just wanted to tell you thank you so much for your shared knowledge brother. I began to saddle hunt just last year and would have passed on the prospect of doing it myself if it were not for you. I am on a very tight budget and simply can not implement the use of mechanical components due to the $$$ involved. With your testing and constant evolving of climbing systems that you freely share with the people, I am so very grateful to you sir. To be able to climb a tree with ease and be able to do it consistently is simply awesome. Just know that you are appreciated and I tip my hat to you sir. I will keep you in my thoughts and prayers, especially when I am climbing in the pitch dark of those early morning hunts. Cheers
Clayton, I appreciate your note sincerely. That’s exactly why I am doing it: friends like you, who I have never met, but who share a common interest in hunting and who have a big enough head on their shoulders to know we should do so as safely as possible. All I ask is that you pass it along. In a year or two, with enough reps on your system, you become an expert and then we help the next person. cheers, and good luck. – jrb
Would like to know how a false crotch made of some type of non rusting cable could be made or manufactured with end loops and a ring where a paracord preset loop could be left in place all season without worrying about it getting chewed or degraded. Most of trees I hunt have no crotch or it is way too high to be of use.
Hi Brad, that’s a great question, and one I have thought about. There’s a difference between what we CAN do and what we can do with the HIGHEST confidence. For example, we could fashion such a device out of steel wire cable, but there are some issues to overcome: 1) anything we use for life safety should be designed for the application. We might be able to buy something at the local hardware store, but it might not come with an MBS rating or the info we need. 2) we need a way to terminate it and conventional knots won’t work. Wire clamps would work, but how do we know their ratings. 3) Anything we build, we need to test. It’s hard to test this stuff without a test rig, and of course, we would need to test multiple samples. On the other hand, the nice thing about rope and cord is that it was designed for climbing and so we know the strength profile All of these factors are what drove me to devise the Floating Anchor. I feel that its the best compromise: We thread a rope through a floating anchor and we can secure it with a Maverick Hitch, and climb on it.
Hey John…
Been a fan and slow learner since you were advertising the double mich. I was running that as a saddle hunter and reluctant to migrate to the 523 jrb until last hunt season and got really comfortable with it.
You have a ton of great content and owe you credit to punching my tags for pnw blacktails for the last few years.
One gripe (a bit of an oxymoron given all I’ve learned and saved $) is that you’ve advanced your shared knowledge so much that’s its difficult to keep track.
One (or several) video idea is to do a solo hunt and showcase your latest rigging setup for saddle hunting.
I’m still planning to run the 523 jrb double rope and it’s still a very effective system… is this what you are running for saddle hunting or has it changed?
‘Glad to know I am helping. Yes, the system has evolved. However, when I am going to a known preset location, all I carry is a simple system with two hitches for the JRB / DSRT climb. I did an entire season on the 523 JRB Ascenders and they were flawless, and so this season, I will be doing more with the Agile Hitches, just to ensure comparable performance in DSRT. But if I am doing a random (run and gun) hunt, then I will bring the Universal system and a pole, which allows me to climb a tree without a crotch. Not to complicate matters, but I am learning that a lot of hunters prefer SRT, some with decent reasons, especially those who are pole setting, and so I will be doing some more content on SRT, which is how I climbed before I came up with the JRB DSRT.
Interesting as I’m readying for 2nd season blacktail archery intending with the same setup as last season, I found myself somewhat stuck in the tree using the dsrt with 523 jrb hitches. I must have overtightened my hitches (i like to do dry runs before i start hunting) and I didn’t want to retie them at height. I also found that 2 lines through the Garda hitch makes the rapel challenging especially when trying to work myself down with super tight/locked hitches.
As a result I went back to srt using a single jrb 523 hitch and an alpine butterfly to the tree crotch. I’m finding this might be my method for this season. I like the single rope as you dance around (or twist) the tree for position and the rapel is seamless.
I guess it’s just a change of season… I’ll keep at the jrb dsrt as I’m sure next time I’ll find my preferences change. Thanks for keeping me up to date on the latest… also am intrigued with the new saddle recommendation!
The JRB Ascender hitch is more complex than most friction hitches and delivers greater performance. We accept the responsibility to ensure we have it tied and have it operating properly before climbing on it, and then there is no need to re-tie it until such time that you wish to inspect or replace the cord. It is also recommended that we use the handles, to ensure that with each rising move, we are pulling down on the bottom, keeping them elongated. If all we do is load and push them up, any friction hitch is prone to jamming. I use SRT only in certain scenarios where DSRT doesn’t work. But most of my climbing for hunting is on DSRT.
I certainly appreciate the constant feedback and response… this is another reason why I’m a fan of your system.
I agree with you and as I’m preparing for the hunt I’m doing both dsrt and srt (I have multiple locations). As I ascended on dsrt again I used a different hitch cord, a size up and operated very smoothly. Made me wonder if I use a newer or stiffer hitch cord if that’s what I need. When i was struggling with jamming I was using a 6mm cord thats very pliable and makes loosing a jam more difficult. Any respect… thought i would share in this one data point. Great system and love the content! Thanks!
Agreed and thanks. See the page for Cord which was recently updated with some recommendations.
I’m brand new to saddle hunting/tree climbing. Most of the content I see online is guys climbing with mechanical devices like hand ascenders and belay devices like a madrock or Grigri+ with a quick link and clip tender. I initially aimed to follow their methods, and then I came across your channel.
I won’t sugarcoat it. Your content is both genius but the volume of all of the different knots and all of the various situations you showcase them in is overwhelming to me. I don’t know if I’ll be able to learn all the different hitches you’ve created or show us on your channel and know exactly when to employ them.
BUT!
The maverick hitch is phenomenal. I can tie it very reliably, and it seems to do just about everything apart from fully explode. I’m not sure one strand behind the tree is all that big of a deal though. As I said I’m brand new to this.
Is there any reason I shouldn’t use the maverick hitch as my do it all hitch?
Canopy (for throwball SRT climbs) / Tether (for one stick climbs) / Safety Rope (for multi-sticking climbs) / Anchor (for hitch climbing with a rope stick)
I feel as if I can probably learn and retain the JRB hitch for a final anchor after I’m at height. I’m just wondering if in your opinion there is something I’m missing about the Maverick that should make me strongly consider other hitches in specific circumstances or in general.
Thank you for all you’ve done and continue to do!
Thanks for your comment and support. I am not trying to overwhelm you or anybody with info and doing my best to keep it organized. As for the Maverick, it can be considered a variation of the Running Highwayman’s. But I tested it it extensively, and I do feel that the passage of the “release loop” up and against the host adds a good deal of stability and fault tolerance and so I do not recommend setting a canopy anchor without that set as described AND with it locked. And yes, if I could only use one anchor, that would be it. Note that once I start running the anchor up, I do not want it to be possible to destabilize it before I climb and the lock will ensure that. The JRB Hitch is ‘exploding’ and so it will just pop off the tree, where the Maverick will leave a strand around the tree. JRB hitch was my first knot and I don’t apologize for it… but its best used in situations like you describe: a final anchor when at height. However, given my rule about being tied in the whole time… well, if I used a Maverick to get up the tree and am already on it, I would not be motivated to switch over. Remember, my rule about being tied in means that I can’t remove one tie in until I put in the other one and transfer my weight to it. That is true whether my feet are in the air or on a platform. You have never seen be ‘advance a tether up a tree’ like you see other one stickers. And the reason is simple: if I am advancing that hitch, then its slack, and by definition, I am not ‘tied in’ at that moment.
Hi,
Thanks for the educational videos!
I noticed that you introduced the Maverick hitch which has some really interesting properties. I believe you can easily make it an exploding release while making it possible to unlock the soft lock from the ground. This will enable you to leave the Maverick soft locked in while you rappel and allow you to first unlock it and then tear it down from the ground using the same retrieval line for both.
Now, with things like the alpine butterfly and the death knot (scaffold knot tied very wrong) the HowNot2 channel on YouTube has proven quite consistently that if you have large enough bight, the knot will cinch in before the bight can fully escape. It is likely that this would happen with the Maverick as well but when climbing one should not play with the odds no matter how small, which is for example why the alpine butterfly is always secured. It never hurts to make it safer in order to reduce user error, as user error is the most likely cause for a failure.
For this to work, it is important to have an end loop from some soft easily bendable material (e.g. paracord) just like you are already using on your ropes. From my testing, around the palm of a hand while stretched will do. A carabiner has the potential to get jammed on the release bight of the Maverick hitch especially from the gate and have it hard time to go through, I haven’t tested how a boat clip functions but assuming it does not, the only down side of this method is that you always have to tie in your retrieval line.
You have two options, either you set the retrieval line already on the ground or you attach it just before you rappel. For both methods it is important that you tie in the retrieval line with something that cinches on the loop as you want it to stay in the middle and not climb up the loop at the beginning of the pull or it will be a lot harder to unlock the soft lock from the ground. Something like a running bowline will do.
Option 1: Tie in the retrieval line to the end loop already on the ground.
– do the Maverick hitch as you normally would but do not lock it yet
– attach the retrieval line to the middle of your end loop
– soft lock it, with the attached retrieval line going through the release bight together with the the end of your rope
Option 2: Tie in the retrieval line before rappel
– put the retrieval line once through the release bight, following the end of the climbing rope
– tie the retrieval line into the middle of the end loop
Unlocking the soft lock is then done from the ground by pulling and wiggling on the retrieval line, and after the end of the rope escapes the release bight it’s just a regular tear down.
Thank you for your time.
The reason I had not replied sooner is simply because your comment has a lot in it, and was not something I could reply to comprehensively, nor without some time in a tree. 1st, thank you. Good stuff. I have recorded your comments in my own log, and will do my best to address anything relevant in an upcoming video. In summary, when we use the Maverick as a canopy anchor, if we want to pull it back down without exploding it, yes, it can get tighter, but I have always been able to retrieve it, just needed more of my body weight to do so. I also have some tricks for how to optimize the hitch and minimize the effort. I will drop you a personal email as well. Cheers.
Hi John,
I consider myself blessed by providence to have dunced into your excellent YouTube videos. I also consider myself a recreational tree climber at 80 y.o. I don’t hunt anymore and when I did it was with a black powder Brown Bess (mainly wild turkey here in Missouri).
We’ve all heard it said that after a person retires those years are referred to as the “Golden Years”. My a.. 😀 All those bumps and bruises accumulated throughout your younger years is when a relative of the grim-reaper shows up on your doorstep, he comes to collect the “butcher’s bill” for all those young person physical mistakes.
Staying above the dirt is my main quest at this point, along with putting your fine instruction(s) to good use while I’m able.
All the best to you and all aboard
byland or sea: N38.5 x W90.2,
Don Reed
214#, a believer in 10mm.
Don, Sorry for the delay, but I just wanted to say both thanks and you’re welcome. 80 is a number. It’s not about how many years we lived. It’s about how many we have left and how we spend them. And as long as we can go up the stairs, we can go up the tree. Cheers.
Hi John,
Tnx for the response.
I realize your prime curriculum is aimed at hunters working at altitude and their need for camouflage and stealth; however, my interests in tree climbing these days, due to failing health and age, have been relegated to recreational climbing and maintaining what’s left of my fast-decreasing strength. So, to aid me in my search for that maintenance, I don’t mind using modern gadgets to get topside and aloft on the 05 level. But I’m a firm believer in the old Military adage of “Keeping it “Simple, Stupid”, (the famous K.I.S.S. formula). The fewer items attached to my girth, the easier the climb. Your brilliant YouTube videos have greatly helped in that regard.
Like most searchers for the truth, we dig around on th NET to do our comparison shopping, as it were. It doesn’t take long for us to separate the wheat from the chaff; aside from listening to the guys and gals that actually invent the climbing gear and the hitches, or who have taken the time to become experts that give the rest of us the higher point of view. Truth be told there are other websites, where I venture to obtain additional climbing knowledge beside yours, such as, Rich Carlson’s “Canyons and Crags”; Olivia Race, of the IFMGA American Mountain Guide/AMGA Instructor, who BTW has many methods of ascending a rope. I was pleasantly surprised that she also uses the GARDA foot ascender for rock climbing as one of her favorites. There are many more serious “instructors”, of course. (I had to point out my favorite three).
What seems to be under-instructed from my point of view is how to maintain and care for the rope and cordage. Keeping it off the ground as far as possible, on a tarp or poncho, and how to clean it. Dirt and sand will grind the expensive tools to a pulp.
(washing machine–BEST,
NO SOAP, SPIN CYCLE OK,
NO Washing machine DRYING CYCLE and
NOT PLACED IN the SUN to DRY,
PLACED RANOMLY ON TARP,
NOT LOOPED ON RACK)
if stomped in the mud and when to deep-six the aluminum carabiners and other metal equipment when they’re no longer serviceable. As you often state,
“A life is on the Line.”
All the best,
Don Reed
Great input. What do you think about the content I just added to this page, motivated by your input?
https://jrbtreeclimbing.com/content/rope/
Hi John,
Being new to saddle hunting, would you be able to recommend a quality saddle that checks all the boxes for a quality safe product? I have been leaning towards aerohunter and/ or cruzr.
Mike, I have not had an opportunity to try on many saddles in the last year, and so I am probably not the best resource for this info. The one you see in my videos is a 2020 Aerohunter Flex, which was discontinued within a year, and unfortunately, Aerohunter is no longer making saddles. I have not tried the newest Cruzr saddles, but did try one a couple years ago and it was light and seemed comfortable. The true test of comfort is an actual hunt, where we are in it for 4 hours or more. And of course, thats hard to do unless you’re able to arrange or attend a ‘meetup’ event for other hunters in your area, which is exactly what I did before I bought my first saddle. I sat in somebody else’s Flex and liked it.
Good afternoon. I am an ISA Certified Arborist as well as a Recreational Tree climbing instructor. Let me start by saying the JRB ascending hitch looks fantastic! My premade prusiks are too short to tie it, but I have a bulk order on the way! The fact that you are able to use that hitch to climb and descend on a single rope system without a Rope Wrench or other mechanical device is game changing! It will allow me to switch between stationary rope and moving rope situation without having to remove gear (risk dropping it, have to carry it, waste the time switching). I read through your comments and have a couple of suggestions that I think will be helpful to your followers. First for the big guys (or girls!) climbing. Use bigger rope! I climb on 12 mm rope and use a 10 mm bee line cord. I checked out the comparable weights for the smaller diameter ropes and there is only a 3# difference per 100 ft between the 12 mm and most 8 mm ropes. Let’s be honest. . .we are all carrying an extra 3# up into the tree compared to what our doctor wants us to and so I don’t think the difference will be noticeable but the ride will be much smoother. It’s the difference between an Escalade and a Ranger! Secondly, the point where your ascender connects to the rope determines the center of gravity of you as a climber. Having it at the top of your arm’s reach forces you to hoist yourself upwards without the help of any rotation of your body. If you use an extra carabiner to clip the “toggle” beaner to your low bridge while you are ascending your center of gravity is now much closer to your bodies natural center of gravity (just behind your belly button).
Bridge detour
(By low bridge I mean clipped into your harness at your belt buckle level or just above it. You may have an extended bridge on your harness that makes it more comfortable to hang once you are in the tree, but it is making getting in the tree much harder! The extra carabiner allows you to release the ascender from your low bridge without having to disconnect from your safety system. You will have to have your weight lifted to make this move, but with half a hip thrust you should be able to ease yourself up enough to release the extra carabiner and then ease yourself down to your long bridge.)
This arrangement allows you to rotate your trunk up and over your attachment point when you stand on your foot ascender (mechanical or otherwise) and makes ascending much closer to stepping up a one foot stair than doing a pull up from a dead hang. Thirdly, tethering your ascender hitch to your low bridge allows it to be tended by your body as you ascend. (I use a webbing sling from one of the rear gear loops on my harness and run it up over my opposite shoulder and clip into my ascender carabiner so the webbing strap keeps my ascender right at my belly button. It’s not a part of my life support, but it puts upward tension on the hitch and keeps it with me hands free.) This addition allows you to stand on your foot ascender and then sit on your ascending hitch without having to move the ascender hitch with your hands. It makes for a much smoother, efficient, and faster ascent.
I hope this is all clearer than mud and helps get your folks up in trees more efficiently. I would be happy to email / call if you have questions.
Jesse, thanks. Its fantastic to have your level of experience here. Your points are well taken, but I might need to discuss to understand a few of the details. But regarding the thicker rope, I concur and regularly encourage anyone using SINGLE rope methods to go to something larger than 8mm, particularly for larger bodied climbers. I dropped you an email as well. Most saddle hunters have a long bridge and some/most of them are not adjustable. And so the methods described work well for somebody with a long bridge as their primary point of attachment. When I attempted to climb with an extra 95lb of cast iron on me (a challenging test), it helped me to start each move with my arms outstretched so that they could pull me up as well as my legs lifting me. If the attachment point is lower, that works fine for SRT, but for the stationary double rope method, I find it more difficult. We might need a tree and some time to discuss further. Pls post in my facebook group if you are so inclined: JRB Tree Climbing.
Great videos. Cool method. Very innovative.
Connecticut Tree Hitch is what I call the JRB saddle hunter hitch.
Equivocation Hitch is what I use as a version of the quick release/load one side that one could rappel and retrieve the rope.
I make little men out of 550 cord (see 550guys on Facebook). Would love to send one to you as a gift
Thanks. Fyi, the connecticut Tree Hitch is not the same as the Saddle Hunter’s Hitch. It’s really just a Toggled Bight, which is in Ashley’s Book of Knots as #1867. The SHH is formed differently and has an additional crossing point per side and is more secure.
Hi John, I appreciate all you’ve done for the tree climbing groups, especially us saddle hunters. I am using your JRB Hitch climbing method with the Garda hitch foot loops. Outstanding where I can’t use a throwball, most of the time. I have 2 questions. Where is your dump pouch from? And Unless I missed it on one of your videos, How do you tie on a false crotch? I use a large climbing ring on 1/8″ cable, doubled, and three saddle clamps for my long term local locations (I don’t trust squirrels) but would like to tie on some when I go to the Poconos for a week during the rut. I’m from SE PA. Thanks again!
Bob, I do not have a video (yet) on false crotch situations, but have a clip in my JRB Tree Climbing Facebook group. If you are part of the group, just search on #falsecrotch. I have always used webbing, and have never had a problem with critters chewing them, but that doesn’t mean its not possible. I will make it a priority to get ya a video together ASAP. And if you are in SE PA, well, let’s get together. Maybe you can help me film the video that you are suggesting? I will email you directly.
Bob, I failed to answer your question about the the dump pouch in my last reply. There is a link to it at the bottom of the shopping list page. There is also one at RockNArbor although I have not tried that one out yet. https://jrbtreeclimbing.com/content/shopping-list/
Quick question. Do you consider the hunter’s bend to be usable and reliable for life support using webbing? I’m using an arborist saddle, and I built a loop out of 1″ tubular webbing and used the hunter’s bend to finish it, as in the soft bridge on the 523. Any reason that the use of webbing would make it less strong or reliably binding as in the use of rope? I tested it only a couple of feet off the ground and I saw no movement at all in the webbing. Just curious what your opinion is on that. In other words, would you trust your life on it as a saddle bridge?
Mike
Mike, I would not use the Hunters Bend on Webbing. I am aware of no evidence or testing that it is a good compbination. I have a video on the Water Knot and recommend you use that. It’s easier to tie than HB.
After 4 months and fall from climbing; I have sorta found my system worked out and have use the JRB ascender with a throw ball and single rope. Now you show the double michoacan. I like it. Now I have tried that for two days on 12mm rope and 9mm accessory cord. It does not hold well for me. I have no more sterling 7mm so I used what is available for now. Should I use 8mm on the 12mm rope? Plus I noticed the climing ropes decrease in diameter with repeated use. Does that mean I need to change my accessory cords?
John, Chronologically, I discovered and publicized the Double Michoacan before the JRB Ascender. In my own climbing, I then switched from the double meech to the JRB Ascender across the board. And so if you have that knot under your belt, I see no reason to go to the double meech. I like the 523 in soft bridge mode, whether I am exposing one loop or 2. I don’t have any 9mm cord, and so I could not replicate the exact combination of rope and cord that you described, but on a 12mm rope, I would advise 8mm cord, not 9, for either of these hitches. 7mm will also likely work too; I just can’t test it for ya. As for climbing ropes decreasing in diameter, of course, they reduce in diameter under load, and after repeated loads, they might stay a bit thinner than when we bought them, there should not be very much. Those questions are better sent to the rope manufacturer. My recommendations are based on the actual diameter of the rope and cord. For example, I own two different “9mm” ropes, and with a caliper, I am measuring them to be about 1.5mm DIFFERENT in size. All I am saying is that unless you are actually measuring them, the specified diameter might be very different than what you get.
Hey John. As I mentioned on YouTube, I been using the Hedden on 1/2 inch static rope using 7mm cord. Both cord and rope are really stiff. I been comfortable with this hitch using 3 wraps. I have noticed that with a very gentle tug the hitch slides down the rope. I’m guessing not an issue with high quality rope and cord. What I did was give hitch an additional wrap and instead of immediately putting cord through bottom loop, I brought it up through bottom wrap and then I put it through. Doing so I can no longer make it slide by gently pulling on, which hasn’t been a problem but a slight concern. It grabs instantly and evenly and seems to release easier as well.
I received the photo you posted in the Facebook Group and look forward to checking it out ASAP. cheers!
Just as you have said; 8mm cord on 12mm dynamic rope is where I have ended. I have some mild/slow slipping while desending. Yes, I do measure with calipers and have noticed differences in the same size rope/cord.
Hi John. I’m totally engrossed with the innovation and creativity that you’ve exhibited here and you’ve certainly won me over. I have done some quick math in my head and I’m looking at a savings of at least $500 compared to what I was going to spend on all the fancy stuff out there that you’ve effectively made moot with simple carabiners and rings. Anyway, I’ve watched most all of the videos from your site and there’s only one thing that keeps nagging at me. I just don’t see the need for dual versions of the ascender hitch, ie. left and right handed. I had watched many hours of arborist videos showing the many climbing hitches out there, and not once did anyone said “now, keep in mind this is the right handed version, and you can tie it the opposite way to make it left handed.” So, I’m curious. Can you share with me/us the evolution of the left/right concept in your hitch? Did you start just using one and realize the need for the other, or did you just by default go that route out of pure logic? Is it a performance issue, or simply comfort or personal taste? Of course I’m lazy, and I’d prefer to only learn the one way if I can get away with it. ;D But seriously, since you are using a carabiner or ring to grab and raise the hitch on the upward thrust, why would it matter the orientation of the wraps in the hitch? I’m probably still several months away from beginning to utilize your methods and I’m too curious to wait and experiment on my own to get answers. 🙂 Keep up the amazing work and your ingenuity and vision are inspiring. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Sorry for the delay in responding, as I don’t always get notifications on new comments. Bottom line is although it is my own preference to do so, no, you don’t NEED to tie the friction hitches for the left/right side in the opposite chirality. As a right handed person, I find it easier to tie helical friction hitches in the Z or right handed chirality, which means that they spiral upwards from left to right. That would create a “left handed” JRB ascender in my own jargon. Now, there is one exception: if you are planning on using handles (like small carabiners) in your hitches, like I do, then yes, they do work better, and sit in your hands better if ya build a left handed and right handed hitch. Appreciate your comments and support. Incidentally, I am working on another friction hitch, still testing it now, which is much simpler to tie, but not quite as easy to use. But anybody will be able to tie it quite easily. Just trying to give you tools for your toolbox.
John, thanks for the reply. I went ahead and got un-lazy and learned to tie both chiralities. Actually, I rigged a doubled rope in my home office and have my hitch cords lying nearby. For the last couple of weeks, as I come in to use the pc, I spend a few minutes tying, dressing, and weight testing both hitches to solidify them in my head. Proud to say I’m now a master at tying the 523 in soft bridge mode. 😀 It’s a great hitch and I’ve enjoyed learning it. I’ve been buying my gear over the last few weeks, and finally got a saddle yesterday. So, of course it rained today!! Not to be deterred, I rigged an anchor point in my shop ceiling so I could start using all the techniques I’ve been learning from you. I’m going to do a whole other post on that because it was quite an eye-opener and I think it will really help other guys like me who might have fallen into the “Well, I’m older, and kinda husky, but I’m in good health and have good mobility… I think I can do this JRB climbing thing.” The real well is… yes, and no! 😐 I’m going to have to compose that post over the next week so that I can be sure to cover all the points that I want to share. The bottom line is… in one of your videos you very humbly say something like “Now I know I may be making this look easy.” As that older, husky guy… that’s pretty much the biggest understatement of my last decade of life!! ;D I’ve got a pretty long row to hoe ahead of me, but like I said before, you’re very inspiring and someday I hope it will be for me as easy as it is for you. I look forward to seeing what you’re working on with your next hitch. Mike 🙂
Mike, I try to maintain my humility in my videos, but it would be a fair assumption that I might be a little bit lighter and stronger than most men my age, and I do not say that to brag. In fact, because I can only live in one body, I try to do my best to simulate what it would be like to be heavier (climbing with weights on me) so I can see how difficult certain things are such as breaking a friction hitch, etc. But I would also advise that there is a lot of benefit in honing your technique. In the JRB doubled rope method, make sure you get comfortable just a foot off the ground. Practice rising and shoving those hitches up in one fluent movement. Watch the video on Caila’s first climb. Also, I had a guy climb using my system and he was over double my weight. He had a very large middle and that affected his ability to get his belly and center of gravity close to the rope. It was more difficult for him due to his size and shape. He was always pulling back and down on the ropes instead of just pulling down. Keep that in mind. As you shove them up, the rope is not being pulled… it is simply taut and you are shoving along the line they want to be in.
John, I would not be able to donate, Patreon-style regularly, but I am appreciative of your work. How may I offer a donation from time to time?
John, got some of the 9 mm static rope you recommended from the Rck n Arbor folks plus your discount (my thanks). The rope seems stiff and I am wondering if I can ever pu together a footloop with the garda. Does this rope ever “loosen-up”?
One of the ropes I climb on is a Sterling Superstatic 2, which is 9.5mm and it is rather stiff. The Garda Hitch works best on these larger or stiffer ropes with larger carabiners. I am not sure what carabiners you are using, but the larger ones are better. On the Shopping List, you should see an Omega Pacific Phantom and a Kong Large carabiner. It’s a minor investment, and you can change them out without retying your Garda. Just wiggle it so you can remove one carabiner, insert the new one, and repeat with the 2nd.
Hi Jon, glad I found u on YouTube. I’ve watched most, if not, all of your vid’s. Outstanding! Short background, I’ve been using sticks and LW climbing seat methods. I’ve always used the tether as a continuous attachment to the tree “aided” by a linesman rope. This is about to change, even if I don’t change my climbing method. I’m interested in the JRB Hitch Climbing w/a pole. Can I use the JRB Cinch assembly I used for climbing as a tether while hunting and use that same line for descending? Thx
Absolutely, in fact, that is the main reason I created it. It is ideal for a stick climber who uses a rappel device which can be removed from the line. I plan to demonstrate that in the coming season.
John
Great information!!!! I’m a 6’-11” 300 lb life long bow hunter new to the saddle. I’m from north central FL and hunt public land in several states. I like this new tool in my arsenal.
That said, I feel like the potential for a mishap is on the way down using conventional saddle and climbing methods (sticks). Bridge hang ups on steps, kick outs, size 16 boot on a size 8 step, all with a lineman’s belt to leave you hug up. Not to mention, in the dark.
I want to rappel. I got on rocknarbor searching for rope. WOW!!! Lots to choose from. I know you can’t recommend but I need some direction on the right place to start for a rappelling rope that I would also use as my “tether”.
Also I’m practicing the 523 hitch. Prusik locks down too tight and is difficult to break after it’s been loaded.
John
I think I found what I was looking for after looking at your site. I did not realize you had a shopping list. Again, excellent information. Thanks
Excellent and thank you. I appreciate knowing I am helping, because even though I am starting to make pennies, I am spending them on the gear I need to test even faster than I am making them.
My recommendation for a tether, especially for a bigger lad, is at least a 9mm rope, or larger. For example, my 11.4 mm Sampson Predator is a fantastic rope. 8mm is strong enough, but it doesn’t provide as much surface area, and that’s important, especially considering wet conditions. A lot of stuff is on backorder this time of year, but you can find a couple of items on the RnA website. I do own Maxim Canyon Elite and can recommend it. You can tie a 523 JRB Ascender in Soft Bridge Mode using 7mm cord. Please see my video on 6 Options for Retrievable Rappel or Tether Anchors and decide how you are going to stay tied in. I like to see all climbers tied in on the way UP the tree as well as the rest of the time. But the details of what is right for you will vary. For example, the JRB Cinch works great, but we would need to remove our friction hitch from the rope to do so, therefore, its better for use with a mechanical rappel device.
Hi John
I was able to make my first rappels this past week. I tried both new ropes from RNA, one a 3/8” HTP and the other a 3/8” work pro. Used a 523 friction made with 7mm sterling and a munter. Thanks for the 10% discount.
The ropes seem really stiff. Maybe since they’re new. Hopefully they’ll break in. All went well and was able to control my decent without any issues.The 523 made it all work. There’s no way to break a prusik after I load it on my way down undoing platform and sticks.
I climbed sticks pushing a tether up the tree along with my lineman’s belt taking your advice to be tied off the entire time. Once I got up I attached the 40’ of the 2 different ropes for testing. I probably climbed & rappelled 30 times once I got them in the tree. I used them for tethers also. My plan is to go up with a short portion of the long rope as my tether using a figure 8 and a delta link accompanied by the lineman belt so I can get it down after the hunt. Not sure if the figure 8 is the best knot but before I got my links I fed the whole rope through the figure 8 eye to cinch the tree.
I would give anything for a few minutes of your time to make sure I’ve got this thought process right
All in all it was great. Sorry for the lengthy post.
First, I am happy to help you. 2nd, I don’t own either of those ropes, and both have a reputation for being stiff and although that’s fine for climbing, if you are tying knots with them, it will just be more work. Lastly, I have never done a stick climbing demonstration. At some point, I will, but I find stick climbing (safely) to be difficult. I don’t consider it to be a good idea to be advancing a connection unless our weight is being held by a different anchor. I always alternate two anchor points, and never advance just one. Because if you lost your footing while advancing it, you could be in trouble. I don’t use a conventional tether, ever. I would never want to be on a rope that can’t touch the ground. I use what is basically a JRB Hitch climbing system, alternating connections between either end of the rope to the tree. But keeping the slack down to just a few inches while we climb the stick requires some coordination. I find it easier to just leaver the stick out of the climb completely and climb the rope (JRB Hitch Climbing).
Hey John,
Wanted to share something I came up with from your saddle hunter hitch and JRB cinch. I combined them sort of by using the cinch mechanism of rappel ring and carabiner, but with a double rope, works great two 8 mm ropes, a bite or a loop, through a small ring, the ropes adjust easily but hold fast when cinched, love it as a redirect once in the tree for an improved hunting position. Can’t always get my ropes in the best position on the tree, but seeing a Vice rope and redundant bridge to that I can get set where I want or at least as good as possible. Writing this while hanging off a double rope cinch as a matter of fact!
Excellent and yes, that’s a completely valid application. I do the same thing, but use the Running JRB Hitch.
Hey John,
I got lucky and was drawn in a lottery to hunt in a restricted access WMA here in Mississippi. It’s nice with food plots and good trails, even a small boondock campground. Never hunted this place before. Anyway, picked out a food plot off the map to sit over and hiked in. Mind you never been in here before so I had no idea what the trees were like. But I lucked out and found a tree with a good crotch with a good view of the food plot. Hit the crotch with my throw ball first try, and had brisk, smooth climb. The point I would like to make is that without the JRB double rope method it would have been impossible to do this hunt as the only tree with a shooting lane over the brush was covered and surrounded with vines but with a throw ball and line it wasn’t too hard to manipulate the string , switching the throw ball from one end to the other and drawing it up so it would drop on the inside of vines and limbs to finally get both sides of the string straight down the tree, inside of all of that tangle and get my rope in a good crotch and climb on up. With a climbing stand or steps, I would have been fighting the vines and rattling around in that tangle. Oh, and on another hunt I slipped and fell in fda beaver ditch and got my ropes all muddy, so I washed them with soap and water and got them clean, no change to the Tuefelberger Resc Tech, but the Sterling cord I use for the JRB ascender hitches seems softer, and easier to work with, doesn’t jam as tight when rappelling, releases nice and slides nice when ascending. I’m really enjoying the jrb climbing method,
Sorry, meant JRB hitch not knot. I currently use the JRB cinch to advance up the tree with my tether as I climb. Then tie the JRB hitch in my rappel line to descend. I will try tying it in the running JRB hitch and advance it that way.
Thank you
First I want to thank you for putting all this information on YouTube. I rock climbed for 15-years and wish I had known several of your knots back in the day. I started saddle hunting 2 seasons ago and immediately went to a one stick method. I tried to figure out several ways to more easily get my rope down after my rappel. I ran across your JRB Hitch and it is a game changer. Before, I was using a delta link and with a stopper. I would attach my pull down rope to the rope behind the delta link and pull down my rope. This worked however, it limited me to trees with no limbs, as the rope stayed around the tree trunck. With the JRB knot I can now climb trees with limbs and still easily retrieve my rappel line. Thank you for that.
I do have one question that I would love to see a video on. How can use the JRB knot and advance the line up the tree as I climb. I currently utilize a short tether and the JRB cinch Knot as I climb. Raising it up the tree so I am always in a static load mode, if I were to fall. I use this a tether while at hunting height. I then tie the JRB Knot and switch over to my rappel line, take down my tether, and rappel down. I did want to share that I attach a rappel ring to the end of rappel rope, with your buffalo hitch, and clip a carabiner through the lock-off loop of the JRB Knot and rappel ring. This locks the knot really well and allows me to switch between the JRB knot and the JRB cinch knot, when I multi-stick climb, very easily. If I decide to leave a setup to hunt more than one day I simply jug up my rappel line the next hunt, which I have done on the JRB knot with no issues. In this scenario I leave the carabiner/through the rappel ring in the locked configuration.
I would like to just use the JRB knot and advance it up the tree as I climb eliminating one step. I have tried to do this with limited success. I struggle to loosen the JRB knot once I weight it move my one stick. I was curious of you have tried this and if so how did you do it.
Sorry for the long email, I really do appreciate all your information.
Thank you
Wade Gilbert
When you say the ‘JRB knot’, I think you mean the JRB Hitch. To be clear, the JRB Hitch is different than the JRB Cinch, and there is no ‘JRB knot’. In terms of options for a hitch that you can easily advance up a tree, and can use an optional Pole to do so, there are two: The Running JRB Hitch and the JRB Cinch. This is the video for the Running JRB Hitch. Watch until the end where I show how a pole will work with it.
https://youtu.be/S63q7thZaN4
Here is another demonstration of how I advance the Running JRB Hitch:
https://youtu.be/q-383iuQjQw
And here is a set of anchor options that shows both the Running JRB and the JRB Cinch:
https://youtu.be/V4_rD_7tT6A
Let me know if you have additional questions.
Hi John
Just wanted to say hi and thanks. went out today and put up a set about 30′ used the JRB cinch to make my way up and then tied in at the top w/the JRB hitch to finish up and then repel, had a blast could never of thought it could be that easy. Thanks for sharing
Excellent. ‘Appreciate the feedback and please be careful and methodical in all your climbing.
Hi John Hope all’s well, I learned the Maverick hitch and really like it but the other day I used it and when I finished I unlocked it came to the ground and could not get it to release. Have you had any experience with this happening?
Any tips
No, this has not happened to me. When using the Running JRB Hitch, a predecessor to the Maverick, I did get it in a situation a few times where it was very difficult to release. It would be impossible to diagnose without being there to see it, but if you have a problem again, please take a photo of it so we can figure out what the problem is. The most likely situation is that it was unintentionally locked or not tied properly. If you reply here, we can take up the rest via email, or you can post a photo in the JRB Tree Climbing Facebook group, if you are a member.
Sure will John
Thanks
Well when you only attach the foot loop to one rope it will typically do that I assume! First time climbing on this system mistake. I’ve been climbing for a few years. My mistake.The second climb I realized what I had done wrong. Great climbing system – I really enjoy it and have a lot off confidence with it. Thanks for the response and my apologies for wasting your time responding.
No need for an apology. My motivation for doing all of this is to help my brothers and sisters climb safely, and so I am doing everything I can to answer every question I get. Somebody else will learn from reading the conversation. Cheers.
Gosh, thank you for your work I’m sure I speak for many folks here. You are very much appreciated and too bad you can’t teach the kids you are a great teacher and advocate of safe climbing, I certainly will honor your persistent stress on safety. I know I really appreciate someone giving me advice that legitimately can save my life or mitigate risk of serious injury…. Anyway, thank you very much and I know your dad is very proud of what you’re doing.
I do have a question, my first climb on JRB Climbing method was fairly successful, however; my double rope didn’t stay stationary. I was using a very low crotch and was hoping that was the cause I got up fine – only climbed 10ft bc I was just basically getting comfortable with climbing method and hadn’t planned on a very high climb. I did plan to not forget my throwball and have my rope going g the through a higher crotch but it was great getting to see how flawlessly everything else worked. I’m very impressed – Garza foot loop is really impressive and I gained much confidence in my system. If I can get my double ropes to stay stationary I’m golden. I’ll try another climb later today and see if the crotch height makes a difference. If you’re able to chime in on the issue great otherwise no worries. Good hunting.
When you say that your doubled rope was NOT stationary, I will need a better description. Are you saying that the rope is moving/flowing through the tree crotch? If your Garda hitch is created correctly, then when you stand up on it, it will prevent any rope movement in the crotch. And if you shove up both friction hitches as far as they can go, there can be no movement when you sit down. And so, I am not sure what you meant. You might mean that you the climber was swaying? Or you might mean that after climbing, the two strands that fall back down to the ground are moving and swaying (not ideal in a hunting situation). If that’s what you meant, I would agree; when on a hunt, after climbing, I pull the rope ends up into the canopy and stash them in the tree either draped in a tree crotch or by forming a Saddle Hunter’s hitch and draping them in the end of it.
I appreciate the emphasis you place on safety. I have experienced a 6-foot fall from 12 feet and 4-foot fall from 6 feet. Neither were without pain. I had practiced many times with a particular step but not with the hunting boots I had on during the fall from 12 feet. My boot slipping coupled with a slack lineman belt. The stop was hard when the lineman belt caught on a step. I was fortunate as nothing says the lineman belt would catch on a step. Hanging in my harness with feet barely touching the ground and steps just out of reach created a chore to get out of this position. (Not tied in). The 6-foot fall was using a 3-step aider and a lineman belt. (Not tied in) (Murphys law). Little things cannot be overlooked.
I listened to your 10 rules. I could finish most of your sentences before you did and whole heartedly agree from my experiences. I wear a helmet when riding mountain bikes, road bikes and gravel bikes. I will get me a climbing helmet.
So here are my questions:
1) After falling, I then tried to use a tether while attaching steps. I think I was being too greedy trying to get as much as height as I could and even then, find myself not tied in when I would have to open and raise my tether above the step that I just placed. Choices: put step on below tether (need to use your hitch to keep tether from getting slack), use both lineman belt and tether then open and raise tether and repeat after installing next step or always keep tether above step or throw ball a safety line over a limb and prusik to saddle. I must resolve this issue. Suggestions?
2) Using the JRB Climbing method: what do you do when you get to hunting height? A) Use a platform with JRB Climbing system, B) use a platform and transition to a tether
3) I weigh 258 lbs. Can you list exactly what to purchase from Amazon list or rocknarbor for the JRB Climbing method. I see all the choices for each piece. I don’t have an issue with tying, untying, and inspecting. Just desire to be told get this and this and this only from you. So many folks are putting stuff out there that I can shoot holes through. I hope they have not fallen and survived if they did.
4) What do you do with the JRB system below you when at hunting height
5) The JRB Climbing Method offers redundancy through the entire system leaving the limb the only thing without redundancy. The choice of which limb to use is without question a very important decision. Do you have anything on limb choice?
I worked at trying to create something like a buck squeeze that the utility companies utilize. I did see your video on tethers. Have I missed anything. What do you think? Those using steps need surety. I do for certain. I am not against using a safety line but then I need presets to pull up the safety line. If I use a throw ball, then I should just go with the JRB Climbing Method and lots of practice. Sorry for the length but this is no joke. I have got to be satisfied and comfortable with my equipment and the process. You got my attention just short of 2 years ago.
It was good to discuss these items with you over the phone Kenneth. Obviously, it would be too much to repeat it here on the page, but for anybody reading this, the choice of a tree crotch is an important decision and different trees have different strength profiles. Avoid narrow tree crotches. Between 45 and 75 degrees would be ideal. On hardwoods such as an oak, arborists will climb on a crotch created by a branch with a minimum thickness of our wrist. I like to error on the side of safety and make it the size of our ankle instead. Obviously, the tree and limb must be alive and healthy with no signs of rot or damage. That’s what I do… In the end, all climbers must assume responsibility for their own decisions and actions and accept the risk which is inherent in all climbing activities.
Hey Jon I think a good thing to add to your website would be a page with pictures of each of the hitches with their names you can click on the hitch and just see photos of how to tie them rather than video links but you could still add the video link as well under or above it would make a great quick help guide.
Thanks Karl, yes, this would be a good project for me after hunting season. I am pretty busy this time of year, with the season opening and all the daily Q&A with the climbing team.
Thanks for your blog, nice to read. Do not stop.
Thanks Mark. ‘Appreciate that.
Hey John
Wanted to say thanks again!
Was having a little trouble with my Garda Hitch but got it figured out, I have a question: I have a rock climbing harness ( could be a little more comfortable) I was wondering what you use? and where to buy? I had noticed in one of your vids you had a combination of shorts and harness think i might like something like that.
Keith, glad you figured out the Garda. As for a RC harness, I am not in a position to recommend one, because I have only ever sat in one, my Petzl and it was given to me from a friend, basically brand new, but I am not even sure of the model. I just use it for backyard recreational climbs and testing. In general, an RC harness is not going to be very comfortable to spend any time in, but can be a light and simple method to practice climbing. However, be aware that the tie in point on the RC harness (belay loop) is much lower than the carabiner on our bridge in a hunting saddle. And so, if we are tuning a system to work with both, we might need an ‘extension’ loop on our RC belay loop, so as to approximate the same height as the biner on our hunting saddle.
Hi,,John, just a note to thank you for the great JRB videos. At 75yrs I am trying tree climbing in Florida to keep my health up and to be able to trim my palm trees. I’ve watched about all of the videos and feel the pole and cinch method could work for me. I know some family members are worried but have promised myself-safety first. Thanks again, Mike H
Excellent. I would LOVE to have a palm tree to execute a climb on. And I am certain that the arborists will find this info and take advantage of it. I am seeing some questionable methods for climbing palms.
Hi Mike and John. Had to smile when I just saw your post Mike. I had a hankering, just to have a go, to climb and trim my two palms. A couple of years ago I did climb one using an self made rope harness, two girth hitched ropes around the palm. One as a foot loop and the other with a home woven girth support behind the knee of the other leg. I also had another girth hitched rope above the other two as a safety rope. The process of climbing is similar to that which a steeple jack, or pole climber, might use. Not real comfortable, it worked, I got the tree trimmed, but it left me in no doubt I wanted another way.
Have watched all your videos John, enjoyed and learned from them all. Have also watched a lot of a fellow called BinoH. Tried many of John’s combinations and knots and not had great success as far as ease goes. Kept persevering and have just recently climbed, and trimmed, both palm trees again. the method I have settled on is passing a rope over a high branch and using it doubled (therefore not moving). I tie two VT hitches around both strands of the rope, one above the other. The top one is attached via carabiner to a purchased harness. The other, has attached, a Spanish bowline: two foot loops. Climbing is then quite simply walking each VT, in alternate order, up and using the same technique to climb down. Time is not an issue, physical effort needed is well within my capability, may learn to rappel one day… maybe.
Why the smile Mike, cause I am 73 and also have a family of concerned individuals: that is, except for the two young grand girls.
Thanks John for all your effort. Whilst I have chosen not to use your system: it was because of your interesting system I was keen to keep trying and will continue to watch, with interest, your handiwork.
PaulW.
Thanks Paul! happy to get the feedback and info.
Hi John,
I clicked on the Facebook and Instagram icons and they sent me to a “WordPress site” versus your page.
You should be able to change out the link in the background of WordPress.
Thought you would want to know. : )
Cindy, Thank you. There are three icons: YouTube, Facebook and Patreon. I just tested them on both an Android phone and a Chrome browser on a Windows computer and all three links worked. What platform are you using?
I figured out that you were referring to the small icons at the bottom of the page (which I had not noticed before) and I was able to remove them. I have links to my Facebook, YouTube and Patreon on the main page now, and they are working. Thanks!!!
Hey John, first off thanks for sharing your knowledge! I am going to build redundant bridge and I have some sterling 6mm trc. I was wondering if that would be good or if you would recommend something beefier. Thanks
That’s a great product, constructed of Nylon over Techora. It’s extremely strong, and I did consider it for my own. It is a bit stiffer, and if you are making an adjustable bridge by my design, the ease of movement through a Blakes hitch will be more work. I can’t tell you not to use it, but it’s not my first choice. If you are making a fixed length bridge, it’s a fine choice.
John, I’m a climbing tree trimmer / removal specialist and been playing with your hitches and techniques a bit. Using a 6mm hitch on 8mm dynamic rope and it locks up pretty hard on even a short repel. Will keep messing with materials etc but I think the dynamic nature of the rope makes for too much elongation to have it function smoothly.
Yes, 6mm on 8mm is a true test. On rappel, the friction hitch needs to be loose enough that it is not taking a load. I wiggle mine a bit after breaking them. And I check and reset them before climbing. However, I will be publishing a non-jamming variant of the JRB Ascender Hitch. This one will not require a wiggle or a reset.
Dear John,
First thank you for your great videos. I have the following issue. I want to use your running JRB Hitch only when I am descending the tree and retrieving my rope when I am back on the ground. Therefore it is not an option to lock the hitch. (I have to be able to relaese it from a distance when I am back on the ground.) When I apply and tie the running JRB Hitch correctly, is it secure to descend/rappel in its non-locking shape? Thanks for your response. Best regards and greetings from Holland, Wim Corten.
Wim, Both the JRB Hitch and the Running JRB Hitch cannot be retrieved unless they are unlocked. However, you can install a retrievable lock: if you are willing to bring another rope or cord with you (of adequate diameter), you can use it to LOCK the release loop on the JRB hitch. Simply use it to tie a 2nd JRB hitch, but not on the tree: tie it on one of the two strands of the release loop in the main JRB hitch, now the loop is locked. After rappel, you must invoke two independent actions in the right order in order to retrieve.
your info has been great, been trying different climbing systems, was using mechanically stuff-have changed to your system, only one rope. I found your posts to be awesome, thanks.
I’m the one asking you to climbing a Long Leaf Pine tree, from YouTube. I’m a relatively new saddle hunter, 70 years old, began hunting at 65 with a climbing tree stand. Not enough experience/knowledge with all the different knots and ways to climb. Normally I use 2 Wildman 1 ascenders and 2 short ropes to reach my comfortable hunting height. My pine trees are located in the Blackwater River Forest, northwest Florida. I have used the Wedge Steps with DYI aider(webbing). After 2 days watching you, I feel most comfortable learning your non-moving double rope, non mechanical climbing method/system, and munter hitch to descend. I hope you have enough information to understand. Pictures available where I hunt.
John, Regarding that pine, I don’t have that tree in my woods, and so let me understand: Did you want to see a demonstration of the JRB doubled/stationary method? or a demonstration of JRB Hitch Climbing? Note that there are separate playlists on my channel for these two methods. If the tree does not have a viable tree-crotch for using a throwball, then I would resort to hitch climbing. If you meant the doubled stationary method, it would really just look the same as what you have seen. The rope doesn’t know what type of tree its in and the climbing technique is the same. Perhaps you meant some other special feature of that tree which presents a challenge?
Thank you. So far, I have little success breaking any hitch under a load (200 lbs). The Michoacan (5 loops) is the easiest for me to push up after I load it. Question: Why are my ropes becoming stiff after a few climbs? They get difficult to bend or tie knots.
The ability to break a friction hitch under load is affected by many factors including the load on it, the diameter of the rope and the cord, and the choice of a friction hitch. Breaking a friction hitch under the FULL weight of our body can’t reliably be accomplished with most friction hitches I have tested, including the Michoacan. I am aware of only two where I can do so reliably: 1. The Double Michoacan (I have a video on it.) 2. The JRB Ascender. (I have a playlist on it. I recommend tying the 523 JRB Ascender in Soft Bridge Mode, and you can decide whether you want to expose one or both loops at the bottom. If your friction hitches are getting stiff, that likely means they are getting jammed and you need to spin some slack up into the hitch. Avoid using a friction hitch to absorb friction during rappel if possible, especially on small diameter cords. That increases jamming/binding.
I finally reached a workable changes: double rope with the JRB ascender hitches and proper bridges height. Now to build up my endurance and practice, practice and more practice.
Thank you
Good work and let me know if you need any assistance.