Especially considering the innovation that we have experienced, its clear that our “favorite” knot for an application can change over time. On this page, you’ll find JRB’s favorite knots for the application, in this order: Bends, Loops, Anchors, Friction Hitches.
Knot enthusiasts are encouraged to get a copy of Ashley’s Book of Knots, first published in 1944, with several revisions over the years. It’s a masterpiece. However, don’t be surprised if you don’t find much friction hitches in this great book.
Fundamental Concepts
Besides the information in the Dictionary of Terms here on the website, the following video is a good introduction to basic terminology.
Bends
A “bend” is a type of knot which joins two lines or the ends of a single line to create a loop.
Hunter’s Bend
The Hunter’s Bend (also known as the Rigger’s Bend) is strong, compact, easy to tie, easy to inspect and not impossible to untie when seeing normal load, such as those seen in low slack rope climbing applications.
Sliding Double/Triple Fisherman’s Knot
JRB likes the Sliding Double or Triple Fisherman’s in some applications such as an SRT system, where we need to pass the friction hitch through a running loop. The tails are less obtrusive.
Loops
1. Alpine Butterfly
The Alpine Butterfly can be tied on the end or on the bight and can even be tied with a double loop, making it the most versatile of the loop knots.
2. Figure 8 End Loop
This is the easiest end loop to pass through a crotch. JRB uses it in MRS/DRT systems.
3. Scott’s Locked Bowline
JRB prefers Scott’s for SRT Canopy Anchor applications
JRB End Loops, for Rope Rigging
Granted, it’s a fairly specific application, but there are many scenarios when we need to remotely pass a rope through a tight passage such as a tree crotch or a ring in a False Crotch or Floating Anchor. JRB prefers these end loops to assist in rigging the rope in the tree. They will also hold a carabiner for a Saddle Hunter’s Hitch. The newer (version 2) offer the advantage of greater stability and smaller profile than the original version.
Anchors
Trunk Anchor: JRB Hitch (for basal or canopy anchor, manually set)
An Anchor cinches a line to a rigid host. The JRB Hitch is always easy to release and can be locked from unintentional load, and is remotely retrievable when not locked. JRB prefers it for a manually tied Canopy Anchor and Basal Anchor.
Canopy Anchor: Maverick Hitch
The Maverick Hitch is JRB’s preferred canopy anchor which can be rigged in different ways, including manually set, raised with a pole, or rigged with the Houdini rigging, and in all cases can be remotely retrieved. The JRB Cinch remains a recommended and viable option, offering the advantage of greater simplicity in attachment, and the disadvantage of metal, weight and bulk. JRB prefers the Maverick over the Running JRB Hitch, as it is slightly easier to tie and more consistent in retrieval effort.
Anchor to a Carabiner: Scaffold or Poacher’s Knot
Friction Hitches
Friction Hitch for a Backup
Although just about any friction hitch could be configured as a backup for a mechanical device, the most important features desired in a backup are different than those in a Hitch used as our primary attachment. The Hedden Knot is perfect for the occasion. See video for details. Note that the Hedden cannot be broken under load.
Friction Hitches for Climbing
Below are links to JRB’s favorite hitches for non-mechanical rope climbing. Note that although a friction hitch can be used for a footloop, for most applications, JRB prefers the the Garda Hitch Footloop, which is covered on a this page: Garda Hitch Footloop
DSRT: For doubled stationary rope technique, there are several options: The Agile Hitch is easier to tie than the JRB Ascender Hitch, but sometimes more difficult to break. The Longhorn Agile Hitch is the overall winner in terms of performance but is more bulky and so has a higher risk of not passing through the crotch. Overall, JRB likes the Agile Hitch for DSRT climbing because the performance is adequate and it can be easily removed and reinstalled if there is difficulty getting it through a particular tree crotch.
SRT: The Longhorn Agile Hitch works great in SRT and is the easiest to tie. However the JRB Ascender Hitch (523 in Soft Bridge Mode) also works in SRT applications. If an ultra compact hitch is required, the JRB Ascender has the advantage. It’s also more compact in width and therefore, easier to pass through a running loop in an SRT system where all the knots are pretied (see SRT Scenario 1 video). Both hitches allow self tending (for one hand operation) which is helpful when maneuvering, and is a necessary feature if the hitch is being used as a footloop.
Agile Hitch (DSRT)
Longhorn Agile Hitch (SRT or DSRT)
JRB Ascender Hitch
If we want either 2 loops on the bottom or one longer loop, or convert between the two, use the standard version:
If an ultra compact hitch is desired, one of the following variations is recommended. The rope flows over the carabiner for a smooth experience in shortening the rope segment under tension. Version 3 seems to be the easiest to tie. 5 wraps on the upper helix is recommended.