Page Contents:
Description
This page contains all the details and length specifications for the Longhorn Agile Hitch, a novel friction hitch introduced by JRB which works well in SRT, DSRT and MRS/DRT applications. The evolution of the hitch is captured on the YouTube playlist of the same name: Longhorn Agile Playlist. The hitch can be tied in an extremely compact version which allows the carabiner to also serve as a tending device, minimizing wear on the rope and cord. The optimal cord diameter is approximately 65-75% of the rope. Smaller cords bind harder and are more difficult to break and move. Larger cords are easier to break and move but might not hold reliably. See these dedicated pages for these items:
Longhorn Loop
The Longhorn Loop is used as a building block in creating the Longhorn Agile Hitch. Analogy: Just like a Prusik knot requires a Prusik Loop to create it, the Longhorn Agile Hitch requires a Longhorn loop to create it. The amount of cord that is needed is detailed in a later section.
Longhorn Agile Hitch
This video shows the introduction of the hitch:
MUST WATCH! This is the detailed knot-tying video:
The following video shows how to create the compact variant which is as small as possible and uses the carabiner as a tending device, for smoother operation and less wear on the cord. Note that unlike th standard LA, in the compact option, the carabiner also captures the ROPE.
Length Spec’s
The Longhorn Agile Hitch is constructed using cord which is ideally 65-75% of the diameter of the rope. Each row in the table below contains a reference specification. Remember, it’s always best to error on the side of using more cord rather than less and having longer tails rather than short. We can always trim the ends when we are happy with the result.
- The 1st column provides the rope diameter, cord diameter and the number of wraps, on the upper part of the hitch. 5 wraps is the ‘standard’ but we may need more on small diameter ropes and less on thick ropes.
- The 2nd column is the total amount of cord used. In most cases, JRB cuts cords in one foot increments.
- The 3rd column is the length of the two working ends when building the Longhorn Loop.
- The 4th column is the length of the single working loop we pull out of the Longhorn Loop to start the Longhorn Agile.
- The last column specifies the approximate length of the resulting 2 loops produced, for engagement of a carabiner. One loop is slightly smaller than the other, and the stated dimension is the smaller of the 2 loops.
- (C) indicates an ultimately COMPACT result, whereby the smaller loop is just large enough to squeeze a carabiner through. A compact hitch is preferred for Hitch Climbing and Stick Climbing applications.
- $$ Indicates a minimum for DSRT in a Universal System or an SRT system, giving us a few inches of space and a place to put our hand on top of the carabiner to execute the upwards shove as we climb. If using a double shove technique, longer cord will provide greater separation, allowing our hands to grip the hitches more easily.
- In order to create a longer pair of loops, for every additional inch of desired length, add approximately 4 inches to the overall cord length.
- For every inch that we adjust the working ends for the Longhorn loop, the resulting loops absorb only half that change. Example: if we want our final loops 1″ shorter, lengthen the working ends for the Longhorn by 2″. Be sure not to use less than the minimum length cited above.
- All dimensions are stated in inches and cm. Rope and cord diameters can vary slightly. Some of the combinations are outside the 65-75% range; performance may vary.
- Thinner cords bind tighter and need more effort to break; better for a lighter climber.
- Thicker cords move easier, easier to break, but obviously are more bulky. Better for a heavy climber.
- Treat this information as a guide; you may need slightly different dimensions for optimal performance.
| Rope, Cord, # Wraps | Starting Cord Length | Longhorn Loop Working Ends | Working Loop for LA | Produced Double Loop Size |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 8 mm 5 mm 5wrap | 72″ 183 | 10″ 25.4 | 16″ 40.5 | 4″ $$ 10 |
| 8 mm 5 mm 6wrap | 72″ 183 | 10″ 25.4 | 18″ 46 | 3″ 7.6 |
| 8 mm 5 mm 5wrap | 64″ 163 | 12″ 30.5 | 16″ 40.5 | 0.5″(C) 1.5 |
| 8 mm 6 mm 5wrap | 72″ 183 | 12″ 30.5 | 17.5″ 44 | 2″ 5 |
| 8 mm 6 mm 5wrap | 68″ 173 | 13″ 33 | 17.5″ 44 | 0.5″(C) 1.5 |
| 8 mm 6 mm 6wrap | 84″ 213 | 12″ 30.5 | 20″ 51 | 3.5″ $$ 9 |
| 8 mm 6 mm 6wrap | 72″ 183 | 12″ 30.5 | 20″ 51 | 0.5″(C) 1.5 |
| 9.5mm 6 mm 5wrap | 84″ 213 | 12″ 30.5 | 18″ 46 | 5″ 12.7 |
| 9.5mm 6 mm 5wrap | 78″ 198 | 12″ 30.5 | 18″ 46 | 3.5″ $$ 9 |
| 9.5mm 6 mm 5 wrap | 72″ 183 | 12″ 30.5 | 18″ 46 | 2″ 5 |
| 9.5mm 6 mm 5wrap | 72″ 183 | 14″ 35.5 | 18″ 46 | 0.5″(C) 1.5 |
| 9.5mm 7 mm 5wrap | 84″ 213 | 14″ 35.5 | 20″ 51 | 2.5″ 6 |
| 9.5mm 7 mm 5wrap | 76″ 193 | 14″ 35.5 | 20″ 51 | 0.5″(C) 1.5 |
| 10 mm 6 mm 5wrap | 84″ 213 | 12″ 30.5 | 19″ 48 | 4.5″ 11 |
| 10 mm 6 mm 5wrap | 78″ 198 | 12″ 30.5 | 19″ 48 | 3″ $$ 10 |
| 10 mm 6 mm 5wrap | 72″ 183 | 12″ 30.5 | 19″ 48 | 1.5″ 4 |
| 10 mm 6 mm 5wrap | 72″ 183 | 13″ 33 | 19″ 48 | 0.5″(C) 1.5 |
| 10 mm 7 mm 5wrap | 88″ 223.5 | 14″ 35.5 | 20″ 51 | 3″ $$ 10 |
| 10 mm 7 mm 5wrap | 84″ 213 | 14″ 35.5 | 20″ 51 | 2″ 5 |
| 10 mm 7 mm 5wrap | 80″ 203 | 15″ 38 | 20″ 51 | 0.5″(C) 1.5 |
| 11 mm 7 mm 5wrap | 84″ 213 | 14″ 35.5 | 21″ 53 | 1.25″ 3 |
| 11 mm 7 mm 5wrap | 84″ 213 | 15.5″ 39 | 21″ 53 | 0.5″(C) 1.5 |
| 11 mm 8 mm 5wrap | 96″ 244 | 16″ 40.6 | 24″ 61 | 1.5″ 4 |
| 11 mm 8 mm 4wrap | 84″ 213 | 16″ 40.6 | 20″ 51 | 1.5″ 4 |
| Rope, Cord, # Wraps | Starting Cord Length | Longhorn Loop Working Ends | Working Loop for LA | Produced Double Loop Size |
When using the Longhorn Agile in MRS/DRT or other doubled rope applications with progress capture, a compact version is recommended. The exact dimensions are difficult to prescribe so start with the COMPACT dimensions and go from there.
The following video shows advanced options for special applications such as an adjustable bridge.
If you leave the hitch on the rope between climbs, it is best to secure the 2 loops so that they do not become accidentally disengaged. A carabiner is one option. A loose cable tie is another option. And a piece of paracord tied with a Slipped Overhand Bend is a great option, as per the following video. The absolute minimum amount of paracord required is 18″, but 24″ is a safe length to cut.