Contents:
Formula Hitch
The Formula Hitch is a Friction Hitch devised by JRB and introduced in March 2026. The Formula Hitch is second only to the Longhorn Agile Hitch in overall performance. It is highly tunable, and more sleek and compact than the LA, making it perfect for use on an adjustable bridge. However, it requires more effort to advance up the rope than the LA.
The “formula” is a 3 digit number referring to the number of wraps in each section of the hitch, in the order in which they are tied.
- Digit #1 indicates the number of downward wraps used to start the hitch and which appear in the MIDDLE of the hitch. Adding wraps here will add hold, but will also make the hitch more difficult to move. In general, JRB recommends 2 wraps. On larger diameter rope/cord combinations, 1 wrap is often adequate.
- Digit #2 indicates the number of upward wraps used in the helix which appears at the TOP of the hitch. Adding wraps will add hold, but will not cause as much difference in moving and breaking the hitch. In general, JRB recommends 5 wraps, although 4 may be adequate on larger rope/cord combinations and more may be necessary on smaller combinations.
- Inside/outside: As described in the introduction video, we have an option in the configuration for the routing of the working end off of the top. In general, JRB is recommending an inside routing by default. It’s just easier to tie. Changing to an outside routing will make the hitch slightly easier to break, but will also slightly decrease the bite/hold on the upper section. The outside variant may be preferred when the cord is thicker relative to the rope diameter. Feel free to experiment.
- Digit #3 indicates the number of downward wraps used in the BOTTOM of the hitch. Adding wraps here will make the hitch easier to initially break. However, more wraps also makes the hitch ‘stickier’ and harder to move in general. For example, 4 wraps might be easy to break but require some wiggling to loosen it before the next climb. JRB recommends starting with 2 and using the fewest number that will provide adequate breakability.
JRB’s favorite variants are still emerging. For starters, try a 252 Inside Formula hitch with the Eureka Finish on 9-10 mm ropes for SRT/DSRT. If you need to make it easier to break, try a 253, and accept a bit more stickiness.
Eureka Finish
This is JRB’s preferred variant, which was devised AFTER the “Compact” variant described below.
Compact Formula Hitch
This video shows the compact variant, with various options to allow self-tending:
The Alpine Butterfly Bend is a necessary building block for the Eureka and Compact variants:
Length Specs
This table specifies length specifications for popular rope and cord combinations. Specifically, the table specifies the minimum overall cord length and corresponding length of the standing end, when tying the Formula Hitch in 2 ways:
- Eureka Finish (recommended)
- Compact, with load loop just large enough to accommodate a Girth Hitch on a Carabiner, allowing “Girth Hitch Load Mode” or “Girth Hitch Straddle Load Mode”.
Note: if working with a longer cord, add half the extra length to the standing end. For example, the first entry in the table says to use a 14″ standing end with 48″ of cord. If you are using a 50″ length of cord, add one inch to the standing end (15″), and the other inch will show up on the other side when the formula is completed. Use this same logic when tuning your hitches to get the same length on both sides when the Formula is complete and before the Butterfly is tied.
| Rope / Cord / Ratio | Formula | Total Cord | Stand- ing End |
|---|---|---|---|
| 8 mm 5 mm 62% | 252 Eureka 252 Compact 253 Eureka 253 Compact | 48″ 48″ 50″ 50″ | 14″ 9″ 14″ 9″ |
| 8 mm 6 mm 75% | 252 Eureka 252 Compact 253 Eureka 253 Compact | 50″ 50″ 52″ 52″ | 13.5″ 9.5″ 13.5″ 9.5″ |
| 9 mm 6 mm 67% | 252 Eureka 252 Compact 253 Eureka 253 Compact | 52″ 52″ 54″ 54″ | 14.5″ 9.5″ 14.5″ 9.5″ |
| 9.5 mm 6 mm 63% | 252 Eureka 252 Compact 253 Eureka 253 Compact | 53″ 53″ 55″ 55″ | 14.5″ 9.5″ 14.5″ 9.5″ |
| 9.5 mm 6.8 mm 72% | 252 Eureka 252 Compact 253 Eureka 253 Compact | 54″ 54″ 56.5″ 56.5″ | 15″ 10″ 15″ 10″ |
| 9.5 mm 7 mm 74% | 252 Eureka 252 Compact 253 Eureka 253 Compact | 56″ 56″ 58.5″ 58.5″ | 16″ 11″ 16″ 11″ |
| 10 mm 6 mm 60% | 252 Eureka 252 Compact 253 Eureka 253 Compact | 54″ 54″ 56″ 56″ | 15″ 10″ 15″ 10″ |
| 10 mm 6.8 mm 68% | 252 Eureka 252 Compact 253 Eureka 253 Compact | 54″ 54″ 56.5″ 56.5″ | 14.5″ 9.5″ 14.5″ 9.5″ |
| 10 mm 7 mm 70% | 252 Eureka 252 Compact 253 Eureka 253 Compact | 57″ 57″ 59.5″ 59.5″ | 16″ 11″ 16″ 11″ |
| 10.5 mm 6.8 mm 65% | 252 Eureka 252 Compact | 55″ 55″ | 15″ 9.5″ |
| 10.5 mm 7 mm 67% | 252 Eureka 252 Compact | 58″ 58″ | 16″ 11″ |
| 11.1 mm 7 mm 63% | 252 Eureka 252 Compact | 60″ 60″ | 16.5″ 11.5″ |
| 11.1 mm 8 mm 72% | 242 Eureka 242 Compact | 62″ 62″ | 18″ 13″ |
DSRT Demo
Here’s a climbing demo showing how JRB engages the compact Formula Hitch in DSRT: Girth Hitch Load Mode, but rotated 180 degrees, with the carabiner capturing the rope. Note that this video was made BEFORE the Eureka finish was devised.
Bender Tender
Although the Bender Tender is not specific to the Formula Hitch, this video demonstrates how we can make a self tending version using the “Alpine Butterfly Bender Tender” under the Formula Hitch. When compared to the Eureka finish, using this option with the same formula will result in a solution which is:
- Larger/longer in size
- Easier/less effort in tending
- More difficult to break under load