Page Contents:
Overview
What’s a Friction Hitch?
A friction hitch is sometimes described as a ‘slide and grip knot’. Friction hitches are typically constructed out of cord/cordage which are wrapped around a rope in such a way that they hold (in one or both directions) allowing the position of the friction hitch to be moved along the length of the rope when not loaded, and holding under load, held in place by friction. In most cases, the cord is a smaller diameter than the rope, typically around 75%, but there are exceptions. Related pages:
Perspective on the Prusik
The Prusik is the most commonly known friction hitch, and although it holds well, it has poor overall performance in climbing applications. Specifically, it jams tight after a significant load and cannot be reliably broken under load while holding our body weight, in order to transition into rappel. JRB recommends that the Prusik is used only in utility applications where the friction hitch needs to hold in both directions.
They Aren’t Rappel Devices
Don’t use a friction hitch as a rappel device in a single rope application. (In a doubled rope MRS, it is possible, but still not recommended). During rappel, use the friction hitch as a backup, which is manually tended in a loose state, but ready to hold us if we let go of it. The majority of the friction should be provided by a device, such as the Munter Friction Hitch. Why?
- An exorbitant amount of friction and heat is experienced by the hitch causing it to wear prematurely. The cord could fail inspection after just a few rappels.
- In general, they will ‘jam’ (get tighter) if we use them as the rappel device, which could cause the climber to get stuck, unable to break the hitch.
Slippery When Wet
Wet conditions reduce friction. A friction hitch which behaves well in dry conditions could slip in wet conditions. A good rule of thumb is to use one extra wrap more than we need in dry conditions. Related video:
Longhorn Loop
The Longhorn Loop is effectively JRB’s version of a Prusik Loop: it is a building block for friction hitches. Make sure you know how to tie it.
Feature Assessment
Below is a partial list of important features of a friction hitch and JRB’s assessment of the performance of the friction hitches listed below. Name abbreviations are defined in the table of contents and details below.
- Breakable Under Load – How easy is it to break the grip of the friction hitch when it is loaded.
- Jam Resistance – How much the hitch resists getting tighter as we climb.
- Auto Tending – The ability to move the hitch up without the use of a tender (tending device).
- Complexity – How difficult it is to affix onto the rope.
| Hitch vs Feature | Break Under Load | Jam Resist. | Auto Tending | Complexity |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| LA | Excellent | Excellent | Yes | Fair |
| SLLA | Excellent | Very Good | Yes | Fair |
| JRBAH | Excellent | Very Good | Yes | Complex |
| LZ | Good | Good | No | Simple |
| Agile | Good | Good | No | Simple |
| DM | Good | Good | Yes | Complex |
| Meech‘ | Fair | Fair | Yes | Fair |
| Hedden | Poor | Poor | No | Simple |
| Blake’s | Good | Good | No | Simple |
| Prusik | Poor | Poor | No | Simple |
Application Assessment
The importance of the features listed above vary based on the application. Below, JRB has broken down the applications into 4 categories and made recommendations on the performance of the hitches in each.
Single Rope Applications are those where a single strand of rope and friction hitch holds the climbers full body weight. The applications include:
Doubled Rope Applications are those where a single strand of rope and friction hitch holds half of the climber’s weight. Applications include:
Lineman’s Belt could be considered a doubled rope application, but we need either the auto tending feature or the presence of a mechanical Tender to allow us to allow one handed adjustment.
Rappel Device Backup is where the friction hitch is only a backup for a mechanical rappel device. Virtually any friction hitch could perform this role, but the most important features are reliability, compact size and ease of tying, which is why the Hedden is recommended.
| Hitch vs App. | Single Rope | Doubled Rope | Lineman Belt | Backup |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| LA | Excellent | Excellent | Excellent | OK |
| SLLA | Good | Excellent | OK | OK |
| JRBAH | Good | Excellent | Excellent | OK |
| LZ | Fair | Good | w/Tender | OK |
| Agile | Marginal | Good | w/Tender | OK |
| DM | Good | Good | Good | OK |
| Meech‘ | No | Fair | OK | OK |
| Hedden | No | Poor | No | Best |
| Blake’s | Poor | Good | w/Tender | OK |
| Prusik | No | No | No | OK |
| LFS | Marginal | Fair | w/Tender | No |
The Hitches
Longhorn Agile Hitch (LA)
The friction hitch with the best overall performance for SRT, DSRT and Tether/Lifeline is the Longhorn Agile Hitch. It is non-jamming and relatively easy to tie. It is also self tending. Note that the Longhorn Agile Hitch requires the Longhorn Longhorn Loop (described above.) The only disadvantages of the LA are that it is rather large in size and that if we leave it on a rope in transport, there is a chance that it could become partially or fully untied. It is best to leave something (a carabiner or a tie) on the loops in order to prevent it from becoming untied. See all the details on this dedicated page:
Single Loop Longhorn Agile (SLLA)
The Longhorn Agile Hitch can be transformed into a single loop variant. Most of the details are the same as the LA:
JRB Ascender Hitch (JRBAH)
Note that the JRB Ascender Hitch was introduced BEFORE the Longhorn Agile hitch and although performance is comparable and it works well on Single Rope applications, it is more complex to tie, but also more compact, and more stable. Therefore, the applications in which we would choose it are those where the hitch does not need to be untied and where we want a very compact hitch. An adjustable bridge is a good example. See dedicated page:
Longhorn Zenith Hitch (LZ)
Like the Longhorn Agile, the Longhorn Zenith is also built using the Longhorn Loop. This hitch is easier to tie than the Longhorn Agile, with not need for a precise starting measurement. However it is more sensitive to jamming than the LA and is only recommended for DSRT. It works best if we incorporate a carabiner as a handle, which is pulled down as we step up. It requires more effort to move and therefore, moving both hitches with one hand is not recommended. Although it can be used for SRT applications, breaking it under load can be more difficult.
One application for the LZ (which has not yet been detailed in videos) is the following: a DSRT system has a pair of LA hitches on it and is in a tree which has a branch below the crotch which is caught between the lines. By transforming the LA’s into LZ’s, the bottom loops become LONGER and this facilitates executing a bypass around that branch. (stay tuned for a demo).
Agile Hitch
This video demonstrates how to tie the Agile Hitch. The Agile hitch preceded the Longhorn Zenith, but is similar. Like the LZ, it is easy to tie and works best:
- in DSRT applications
- when a carabiner handle is used as a handle.
In order to minimize jamming, the bottom of the hitch must be pulled as we step up.
Double Michoacan (DM)
The Double Michoacan (“Double Meech”) was the first friction hitch JRB devised and works well in DSRT and SRT applications, but is more complex to tie than Longhorn Agile, and about the same as the JRB Ascender.
Michoacan Hitch (Meech)
Before any of JRB’s friction hitches were introduced, the Michoacan, was deemed the preferred hitch by JRB, but only worked in DSRT or MRS/DRT applications. SRT on a Meech is not advised.
Hedden Knot
The Hedden Knot is:
- Compact
- Easy to Tie, using a Prusik Loop
- Reliable, ready to take load
- Strong
- Difficult/impossible to break under load
Although just about any friction hitch could be configured as a backup for a mechanical friction device, the features listed above are ideal. Note that we cannot break a Hedden knot under load. See the Self Rescue video for details on how to do so, even when there is nothing under our feet. Prusik Loops are on the Shopping List Page.
Blake’s Hitch
Blake’s Hitch (sometimes called Blakes Hitch) is generally tied with the rope itself, or a rope/cord of the same or slightly smaller diameter.
Longhorn Friction Shackle (LFS)
This is a Friction Hitch and Soft Shackle in one, for special applications such as affixing a ring to a friction hitch. (See the SRT Method page, scenario 7). If used in a Life Safety application, ensure that a carabiner is used as a toggle.
Longhorn Friction Hitch Family
The LA, SLLA , LZ and Agile are presented in a side-by side fashion, demonstrating how the same Longhorn Hitch can be used to create friction hitches with different length loops. In this example of an 80″ length of cord on a 9.5mm rope:
- LA with Girth Hitches have about 1″ loops
- LA without Girth Hitches have 3.5″ loops
- Single Loop LA has a 6.5″ loop
- LZ has a 9.5″ loop
- Agile Hitch has a 12″ loop.