This page has a list of Frequently Asked Questions. Click on the question to jump to that location on the page. Italic text indicates that identical text appears on a related page.
- General Questions
- Climbing Related
- What is the best climbing method?
- What is the best climbing system?
- Why not use climbing sticks or steps?
- Why not a Tether?
- Why not a Lineman's Belt?
- What about a 'tree squeeze"?
- What about Spikes?
- Can I remove my Garda Hitch?
- Why don't you use Amsteel?
- Is my carabiner upside down?
- How should I back up my mechanical device?
- Do I need a backup for a friction hitch?
- Rappel Related
- Rope Related
- Knot Related
General Questions
Can I remove my leg straps?
No. Leg straps will prevent us from falling through our saddle in the event of a mishap (such as a slip or a loss of footing). Do NOT underestimate how easily this can happen due to fall forces and dynamics. Every reputable saddle manufacturer includes them for a good reason. Also, if your leg straps can easily or accidentally open (typical with G-hook or similar connectors), get a better saddle.
Why can’t I get comfortable?
Sore legs, sore feet, and sore knees are popular problems. They are all related. JRB can get comfortable without kneepads or gizmos or even a platform. See dedicated page:
How do I hang my gear?
There are plenty of devices you can buy, or you can make your own:
What is the best hunting saddle?
There are a lot of high quality saddles on the market. JRB does not claim to have tried them all. Ape Canyon saddles are recommended based on their industry experience, commitment to quality, quality control and rigorous testing. See:
How high should I attach my tether?
Most saddle hunters are tying in too low and trying to shoot over their tether (rope/lifeline) on the weak side. JRB recommends a HIGH tie in point, as high as we can reach, such that we can get our entire body under our rope and stand with our back to the tree, leaning into our rope. This also reduces strain on the legs and makes sitting more comfortable. Comfort and Shooting positions are closely related:
Climbing Related
What is the best climbing method?
That decision is subjective and ultimately up to the climber. JRB’s primary concern is that the method (and system used to execute it) is done as safely as possible. JRB’s preference in his own climbing is to use DSRT whenever possible, then use SRT in only the situations where DSRT is not possible, and to use Hitch Climbing as a last resort. See pages:
What is the best climbing system?
JRB recommends the 3 Hitch (Universal) System because it can be used with any of the recommended climbing methods. It is also available as a kit for purchase from Ape Canyon Outfitters.
Why not use climbing sticks or steps?
JRB used climbing sticks and steps many years ago, but no longer uses them for these reasons:
- They are unnecessary. Why purchase, pack, carry and setup something we don’t need? For example, we could bring a tent in the woods with us, but we don’t need one, right? And so why would we bring it?
- Climbing sticks and their means of attachment are capable of malfunction, such as breakage, collapse, and ‘kick-outs’. Additionally, our foot could simply slip off of one.
- They complicate a safe climb. Given the need to tie in and manage slack no matter how we climb, attaching sticks get in the way and slow us down.
- Sticks make it more difficult to manage our slack. When we stick climb, we want two hands on the tree, making it difficult to have one hand free for slack management
Think of it this way: Would you ask someone on a bicycle why they don’t have training wheels on their bike? Of course not. Just like training wheels allow a kid to ride a bike quickly, once we have learned the basics of riding a bike, the training wheels just get in the way. Climbing sticks are similar: They allow a beginner to get in a tree quickly, but can provide a false sense of security.
Why not a Tether?
Instead of a tether, JRB recommends that climbers consider using a lifeline instead, specifically a rope that safely connects us to the tree at all times and provides a rappel path to safety on the ground. Think of a Lifeline as a “long tether”. Be aware of these shortfalls of conventional tethers and how they are commonly used:
- A tether is too short. We need to be able to get ourselves to the ground if we lose our footing and can’t wait for a rescue. It only needs to happen once to put you in a life threatening situation.
- Advancing a tether is risky. In order to advance a tether as we climb, we have to introduce slack into our system AND we need to loosen the tether from the tree and use both hands to move it up with both hands. If we experienced failure of our footing device at that time, there is no guarantee if or how the tether will engage. It is best to be tied into the tree the entire time.
- Lack of stability. Most tethers are affixed to the trunk using a “running loop” (often and incorrectly referred to by most as a Girth Hitch). This anchor is easily destabilized. Adding any kind of link to the end just makes the system even easier to destabilize.
- Not used properly. Most saddle hunters are not using the tether until they are at height, exposing risk during ascent and descent. A Lineman’s belt does not provide adequate protection in the event of a loss of footing.
Why not a Lineman’s Belt?
A lineman’s belt is a positioning device. It’s great for helping us remain balanced when using our hands for a task. However, a lineman’s belt is not an anchored tie-in to the tree. In the event of a loss of footing:
- The lineman’s belt is not cinched to the tree, so we should expect a fall, but the exact distance and dynamics will vary: we could fall a short or a long way, but are likely to be injured either way.
- If we do get caught on something and cannot regain our footing, there is no easy way to get to the ground.
- We could experience a crushing impact of the trunk onto on our groin.
- We could be cut or impacted by any sticks or branches below us.
- We could be scraped by the tree itself as we exercise an instinct to grab it.
JRB has interviewed actual climbers that have experienced a loss of footing when using only a Lineman’s Belt. One climber was cut badly and although was able to get to the ground, needed to be rescued. One climber was so uncomfortable from the impact of the tree on the groin and the leg straps cutting into the same area that he intentionally cut his lineman’s belt knowing he would fall. The fall caused a back injury. See:
What about a ‘tree squeeze”?
A ‘tree squeeze’ is a modified version of a lineman’s belt which cinches onto the tree. This is beneficial in that we are less likely to fall in the event of a loss of footing. However, consider that there is no guarantee that our feet can reach anything. Getting out of this situation is not straightforward and potentially dangerous especially considering that we are likely to be very uncomfortable with the leg straps digging into our groin to support us while we are trying to figure out an escape plan. Note that utility workers and arborists who use a squeeze in conjunction with spikes / gaffs / spurs on their feet can regain their footing using the spike. A saddle hunter cannot.
What about Spikes?
Climbing spikes are commonly worn by arborist and utility pole workers, but are not a a good match for saddle hunting:
Can I remove my Garda Hitch?
JRB typically leaves the Garda Hitch footloop on the line during the hunt, as it can increase our ability to work around the sides of the tree for shot positioning. However, if you prefer to remove your Garda Hitch Footloop during the hunt, immediately install a Super Munter Friction hitch. This ensures that even if a friction hitch were to slip, you are already in rappel mode and can safely get to the ground. The Munter can also be ‘tied off’ for greater security.
Why don’t you use Amsteel?
Amsteel is just one of a set of extremely strong fibers (good) which have poor heat resistance and lack adequate abrasion resistance (which are not ideal for most saddle hunting, life-safety applications.) Do you understand now quickly heat can be generated in a fall or a slipped friction hitch? Have you seen a saddle with an Amsteel bridge after a couple of seasons of use? Amsteel is not good with knots and is joined in a bury rather than a bend(knot). How is the average person going to adequately test a bury that they have created? It’s just not feasible. If we find a good use for it, we will use it, but overall, it’s just not a good match for what we do. Find all the details here:
Is my carabiner upside down?
The carabiners on our saddle bridge can be safely oriented with the gate facing up or down. The confusion on this point originates from a popular saying in Rock Climbing: “Screw down, so you don’t screw up!”. JRB’s research found that this recommendation emerged because when a screw gate carabiner is oriented with the gate in a position to screw closed going UP, vibrations can cause the gate to slowly unlock. The situation in which this is most likely to occur is when the carabiner is out of reach, often out of view, high above us in an anchor, a situation not applicable to saddle hunters. Furthermore, triple action carabiners are recommended over screw-gates for saddle hunters.
How should I back up my mechanical device?
JRB recommends a Hedden Knot, formed with a Prussik loop, placed above the device. The Hedden can be disengaged for rappel, during which the climber will have a hand on the brake strand of the rope.
Do I need a backup for a friction hitch?
Even though a properly tied friction hitch is very reliable, JRB prefers to have a backup for ANYTHING that is moveable. After all, what if it was not tied properly and started to slip? During a hunt, JRB typically has one of the following engaged below the friction hitch:
- The Garda Hitch Footloop, with ‘best friend’ loop connected to the redundant bridge.
- A Munter friction hitch engaged on the redundant bridge.
Rappel Related
Can I use a friction hitch to rappel?
Do not attempt to use a friction hitch as a rappel device (on a stationary rope system). Attempting to do so can cause the friction hitch to jam/tighten and to overheat. During rappel, the friction hitch should be in a relatively loose state, manually tended by the climber, serving as a backup only. The climber can interrupt the rappel by gracefully allowing the friction hitch to hold, and can restart rappel by breaking the friction hitch.
Why does my friction hitch jam during rappel?
It is a common problem whereby a friction hitch gets tighter (jams) during rappel. Tending the friction hitch improperly and allowing it to absorb too much resistance during rappel can cause this. No matter what device is being used for Rappel, the friction hitch should be acting as a backup and should NOT be providing braking friction. If you need more than two fingers to tend the friction hitch during rappel, it’s not loose enough. Resist the instinct to balance manual resistance in your two hands. Divert all resistance to the braking strand of rope, not the friction hitch. Consider adding additional friction in your device.
Rope Related
Most of the answers are here:
How much rope do I need?
It depends on the climbing system, anchor and methods used. 40′ is a typical minimum, which restricts the climber to single rope applications only. 40′ may sound like a lot, but consider that 10′ can be used in the creation of an anchor, and our platform will be considerably lower than our anchor. JRB recommends 50′ minimum and carries 80+’, allowing doubled rope applications such as DSRT, and basal anchor SRT when necessary. Hybrid systems can use anything in-between. See the rope page for all the details:
What is the best rope?
As of August 2025, JRB recommends the 9mm Rubicon from Ape Canyon Outfitters. However, there are a number of quality ropes and the market is regularly changing. The Rope page has the recommendations.
How do I get the rope in the tree?
- The preferred way to get a rope in a tree is by pulling the rope up using a previously installed paracord preset, a piece of paracord installed in a secure tree crotch at an earlier time.
- If no preset, use an arborist throwball, then pull the rope up and over a sturdy crotch.
- If that is not feasible, use the Maverick pole, and set a series of anchors on the trunk as we ascend.
- If that is not feasible, we can set the anchors manually.
How do I store the rope after climbing?
Do not leave the rope hanging down. It can be noticed by passing deer. Below are some simple options. Regardless of the option chosen, think about an emergency rappel scenario: If we need to get down quickly, our rope needs to be unencumbered.
- If the tree has any nearby branches, the easiest thing to do is to drape large folds of rope in the crotch. Just be sure that you have enough slack hanging down so that you can position yourself for a shot in any direction.
- If the tree does not have a crotch, use the method described below.
Knot Related
Which are the best knots if I only can learn a few?
There are many types of knot and many to choose from within each type. JRB has documented the smallest set of the most useful and high performing knots on a dedicated page:
What else needs to be on this page? Leave a comment! – jrb