Page Contents:
Overview
The JRB Garda Hitch Footloop can be used in multiple forms of climbing, including DSRT, SRT, Hitch Climbing and Stick Climbing.
- The Garda Hitch (also known as the Alpine Clutch) is a simple progress capture device, which consists of 2 non-locking carabiners and a web sling.
- Besides functioning as a footloop, JRB’s design provides an optional 2nd/redundant point of attachment to the climber’s saddle/harness, via the “Best Friend Loop.
- It also provides the option for a “transformation loop”, which serves to shorten the overall length of the footloop.
- When longer, its a perfect height for SRT or DSRT with a longer bridge.
- When shortened, it’s the optimum size for Hitch Climbing or Stick Climbing with a short bridge, set at the minimum length in which we can still reliably self-rescue.
Engaging the Garda
This video gives an idea how the Garda Hitch works, specifically how to engage it such that it holds on a single or doubled strand of rope. The performance and ease of movement of the Garda is a function of the carabiner shape, the rope diameter, the rope stiffness and the number of strands (1 or 2).
Historical research on the Garda Hitch (conducted by JRB years ago) indicated that it has a reputation for being unreliable. JRB did an extensive amount of testing with different combinations of products and found two problems with conventional designs:
- The use of a Girth Hitch on the sling which holds the carabiners places a non-uniform load on the carabiners, which can lead to shifting of the carabiners during use, which can cause the Garda not to grab/hold the rope. JRB has mitigated this problem in his design which uses a specific Bull Hitch Variant.
- Depending on the diameter of the rope, and the thickness of a carabiner’s locking gates, the thicker locking gates may touch when load is applied, affecting its ability to squeeze and hold the rope. For this reason, JRB recommends non-locking gates and accepts the responsibility to keep the device properly oriented.
Safety Considerations
- The Garda Hitch cannot be moved or removed under load. Therefore, the climber must consider all scenarios for its use carefully (see recovery video at the bottom of this page).
- Except when it is being advanced, the Garda should always have some load on it in order to keep it properly oriented and stable. Even just the weight of our foot in the footloop will ensure proper orientation. Lack of a load could cause the device to invert and for the slack strand(s) to fall between the (non-locking) gates causing a gate to open under when load is restored, causing the the device to fail.
- The strength of the Garda Hitch can vary with the rope and carabiners. It should not be used to arrest a significant fall (anything more than a single step when ascending a rope.)
Why the Garda?
This video explains why JRB prefers the Garda over other footloop options, as well as why we do not want a Garda that’s too short: it’s too short for redundancy and self-rescue. (Also see section below on Recovery Scenarios)
Garda Hitch Footloop Kit
As of June 2024, a Garda Hitch Footloop Kit is available for purchase at Ape Canyon Outfitters, and the JRB15 Coupon Code is in effect. This kit works great on 8-10 mm ropes, single and double strand use, as well as 11 mm single strand use. But when using 11 mm double strand, larger carabiners (cited below) should be considered for optimal performance. Here is the kit:
Kit Assembly
Here is the video demonstrating how to assemble the footloop from the contents of the kit:
Design Details
The details of the design evolved as documented in the videos below, which were released over time. Additionally, note:
- The Bull Hitch Variant prescribed must be used to secure the webbing to the carabiners. Don’t try a Girth Hitch or a sewn end. They simply don’t squeeze the carabiners uniformly and can result in unpredictable hold.
- The hose segment shown in the video below is optional, but not necessary. JRB has abandoned it in his own usage.
- With our foot in the footloop, the finished length should allow the top of the carabiners to be at approximately belly button height. Adjust the water knot as appropriate to get the correct length. Although a shorter footloop could be used, this length allows the climber to put their hand on top of the carabiners when climbing, making ascent easier.
- The “Best Friend” loop design which uses a Sliding Double Fishermans Knot (shown in the 2nd video below) is preferred over the one in the 1st video. It installed after the webbing and also utilizes a clove hitch. The clove hitch is critical in that it ensures that the carabiners are properly squeezed if the Best Friend loop is loaded.
- The “Transformation Loop” in the 3rd video is optional. It is not needed in SRT or DSRT but is recommended for Hitch Climbing and Stick Climbing, ensuring that we can have a footloop which is as short as possible, but still capable of self-recovery (see video below.)
An improved Best Friend Loop and the supporting knot tying video:
The Transformation Loop (described below) transforms our Garda Hitch Footloop into a length that is short enough to climb with a minimally short bridge, but long enough to still allow self recovery. JRB engages the Transformation Loop only when Hitch Climbing or Stick climbing. If those climbing methods are not used, the Loop is not necessary.
Build from Scratch
If you don’t buy the kit cited above, you can buy and construct a footloop with individual elements. And don’t forget to use the JRB15 coupon code for your purchases at: https://www.apecanyon.com/
Item 1: Webbing
One inch nylon or polyester webbing (flat or tubular) is available from multiple sources. Note that the 1200 lb webbing is thin and easy to pack but plenty strong for a Footloop. Length: Although the video suggests twice your height for the single loop version, that provides 3′ more than you need. A more accurate estimate is twice your height minus 3′.
- 10′ for a person up to 6’6″ tall.
- 9′ for a person up to 6′ tall.
- 8′ for a person up to 5’6″ tall.
- 7′ for a person up to 5′ tall.
Ape Canyon Webbing:
Amazon choices:
GM Climbing 1″x30′ Flat Nylon Webbing (1200 lb)
GM Climbing 1″x30′ Tubular Nylon Webbing (4000 lb)
US Cargo 1″x300′ Polyester Flat Webbing (4500 lb)
Item 2: Two Carabiners
Locking biners won’t work because the wider gates in locking carabiners will typically prohibit the rope from being properly squeezed. Ideally be round or oval in cross section, with no sharp edges, and ideally have a “straight gate”. The ideal size of the Carabiner varies with the rope diameter and the number of strands being captured (1 or 2). If the carabiner is too large, the hold may be affected and if too small, it will be difficult to operate.
For a saddle hunting applications with 8-10mm rope, JRB recommends these carabiners, which are LARGER than average straight gate carabiners, with 1.5″ inside dimension and approximately 1″ gate opening. In DSRT which uses 2 strands, they work well on 8mm ropes, OK on 9.5mm ropes and are tight for 11 mm ropes. In SRT, they work fine on all diameters.
Amazon choices:
Fusion Supreme Oval, 1.5″ inside dimension
Petzl OK Oval, 1.5″ inside dimension
Fusion Tazo III D Straight Gate
Black Diamond Oval Straight Gate
When building a DSRT system in 11 mm rope, these carabiners are even LARGER, and operate better. They also work on 9.5 mm DSRT and SRT systems, but are less reliable for 8mm systems.
Amazon choices for large carabiners:
Kong Large Straight Gate Carabiners
Item 3: Cord
JRB recommends Sterling 6mm TRC or Sterling 7mm cord or for the cordage. See page for: Cord
- Use 48″ for the “Best Friend” loop, creating a finished loop that’s only 6-8″ long
- Use 48″ for the optional “Transformation Loop”, creating a loop that is about a foot long.
Recovery Scenarios
JRB recommends that we are always prepared for the unexpected. For example, what if our friction hitch slips and our weight is on the Garda? How do we recover given that the Garda Hitch cannot be removed when it is under load? The climber needs to retie or replace the problematic friction hitch above the Garda and restore load on it before the Garda can be removed. The following videos demonstrates related recovery scenarios involving the Garda Hitch, in both Single and Doubled Rope applications.
The following video shows how to tie a Hedden Knot with only one hand, requiring that a Prusik Loop is available to the climber. This technique could be employed in recovery scenarios for climbers who have a short Garda hitch and no ‘best friend’ loop with integrated redundancy.
Double Loop Variant
Although the newer Single Loop Variant is recommended, here is a link to the Double Loop version for historical reference: (video link).