A friction hitch is sometimes described as a ‘slide and grip knot’. Friction hitches are typically constructed out of cord/cordage which are wrapped around the rope in such a way that they hold (in one or both directions) allowing the position of the friction hitch to be moved along the length of the rope when not loaded, and holding under load, held in place by friction. Related info:
Prusik Knot. The Prusik is the most commonly known friction hitch, and although it holds well, it has poor overall performance in climbing applications. JRB recommends that it is used only in applications where the friction hitch needs to hold in both directions.
Friction Hitches are not Rappel Devices. Performance characteristics vary greatly amongst friction hitches, but in general, they can ‘jam’ (get tighter) if we use them as the single source of friction in a rappel, which could cause the climber to get stuck. JRB recommends that although the friction hitch can be the backup and can supply some of the friction necessary for rappel, we should get as much weight as possible elsewhere on the rope (such a Munter Friction Hitch). Even a crude loop around our foot to create a footbrake can absorb 50% of our weight, allowing us to slowly step down the rope.
Consider the Application
We have multiple tools in our toolbox, and we should the right hitch based on the application and our knowledge of how to use it. These are the PRIMARY climbing techniques/applications employed by JRB, with links to dedicated pages on each:
DSRT: Doubled stationary rope technique (DSRT), is JRB’s preferred method to get in a tree.
SRT: Single Rope Technique is used in select applications where DSRT cannot be used, or where the climber has not enough rope for DSRT.
Hitch Climbing (or Stick Climbing) is used when the use of a throwball is not feasible.
Tether, Lifeline, Rappel – Stick Climbers are more likely to use these applications.
Longhorn Loop
Several of the friction hitches introduced by JRB and described below require the Longhorn Loop as the building block. Just like we need Prusik Loop to form a Prusik knot, we need a Longhorn Loop to tie the Longhorn Agile, Longhorn Zenith, etc.
Longhorn Agile Hitch (LA)
The friction hitch with the best overall performance for SRT, DSRT and Tether/Lifeline is the Longhorn Agile Hitch. It is non-jamming and relatively easy to tie. Note that the Longhorn Agile Hitch requires the Longhorn Longhorn Loop (described above.) A couple of videos are included below, but all the details are on this dedicated page:
Longhorn Zenith Hitch (LZ)
The Longhorn Zenith is also built using the Longhorn Loop. This hitch is easier to tie than the Longhorn Agile, and works best in DSRT, but performance is best if we incorporate a carabiner as a handle. It requires more effort to move and therefore, moving both hitches with one hand is not recommended. Although it works for SRT, breaking it under load can be more difficult.
One application for the LZ (which has not yet been detailed in videos) is the following: a DSRT system has a pair of LA hitches on it and is in a tree which has a branch below the crotch which is caught between the lines. By transforming the LA’s into LZ’s, the bottom loops become LONGER and this facilitates executing a bypass around that branch. (stay tuned for a demo).
JRB Ascender Hitch
Note that the JRB Ascender Hitch was introduced BEFORE the Longhorn Agile hitch and although performance is comparable, it is more complex to tie, but also more compact. Therefore, the applications in which we would choose it are those where the hitch does not need to be untied and where we want a very compact hitch. An adjustable bridge is a good example. See dedicated page:
Agile Hitch
This video demonstrates how to tie the Agile Hitch, which is built upon the Klemheist and was superseded by the Longhorn Zenith Hitch. It is extremely easy to tie and works best in DSRT applications when a carabiner handle is employed.
Double Michoacan
The Double Michoacan (“Double Meech”) was the first friction hitch JRB devised and works well in DSRT and SRT applications, but is more complex to tie.
Longhorn Friction Shackle
This is a Friction Hitch and Soft Shackle in one. Note that the performance of this hitch differs from that of the Longhorn Agile Hitch, and so it is generally not used for life support connection to the rope, but its great for utility applications.
Hedden Knot, for a Backup
The Hedden Knot is:
- Compact
- Easy to Tie, using a Prusik Loop
- Reliable, ready to take load
- Strong
- Difficult/impossible to break under load
Although just about any friction hitch could be configured as a backup for a mechanical device (or another friction hitch), the features listed above are ideal. Rationale: If the hitch is hard to break under load, that is not a concern provided that we have a way to get our weight off the hitch and initiate rappel. A Hedden Knot installed above the primary device is a good choice for a backup.
If we found ourselves on an unbreakable friction hitch, we need a plan to get our weight off of it so that we can initiate rappel. See video (where the Distel Hitch could have been a Hedden or any other unbreakable hitch).
Grab a couple of spare Prusik Loops for your Hedden and carabiners and don’t forget to use your JRB15 coupon code:
Blake’s Hitch
Blake’s Hitch (sometimes called Blakes Hitch) is generally tied with the rope itself, or a rope/cord of the same or slightly smaller diameter.
Michoacan
Before any of JRB’s friction hitches were introduced, the Michoacan, was deemed the preferred hitch by JRB, but only worked in DSRT or MRS/DRT applications. SRT on a Meech is not advised.