A friction hitch is sometimes described as a ‘slide and grip knot’, which is typically constructed out of cordage, joining the cord to a rope, while allowing the position of the friction hitch to be moved along the length of the rope when not loaded, and holding under load, held in place by friction. The Prusik is the most commonly known friction hitch, and although it holds well, it has poor performance and so it does not appear on this page. See these pages for more details:
Choose the Hitch Based on the Application
We have several tools in our toolbox, and we should the right hitch based on the application and our knowledge of how to use it. Climbers assume the responsibility for their actions and decisions. Don’t try climbing on something until you are certain it is tied correctly.
Friction Hitches for DSRT
DSRT: Doubled stationary rope technique (DSRT), is JRB’s preferred method to get in a tree. There are several options for friction hitches:
- The Longhorn Agile Hitch has the best overall performance but is slightly more bulky and requires more precision to tie. A 2024 survey indicates that most of JRB’s team of climbers prefers the Longhorn Agile Hitch, primarily due to it’s smooth performance and anti-jam characteristics, allowing both hitches to be advanced with one hand. However, it is prone to destabilization in transport and so we may need to leave a carabiner or ‘keeper’ on the load loops so that they do not become misconfigured.
- The Longhorn Zenith Hitch is the easiest to tie, less bulky than LA, but harder to move. Consider that in a situation where the friction hitch won’t pass through a tight tree crotch, we need to remove the friction hitch to rig the rope, then replace it. This is where LZ has the advantage because it’s slightly easier to tie than the Longhorn Agile. It’s also less prone to destabilization in transport.
- The 523 JRB Ascender Hitch in soft bridge mode. This hitch performs great and has a sleek profile. Handles are optional and can be removed. The only drawback is that it is more complex to tie.
- In the earliest videos, JRB used the Michoacan hitch, and later the Agile Hitch, but both of these have been superseded by the choices above.
Friction Hitches for SRT
SRT: Single rope technique or any applications where all of our weight is on a single strand of rope, including, Hitch Climbing, Stick Climbing, Lifeline, Tether and Rappel operations.
- The Longhorn Agile Hitch is the overall recommendation.
- The Longhorn Zenith Hitch does work (and is easier to tie), but especially on small diameter ropes, it binds a bit harder and can be more difficult to move and break. When we initiate rappel on the LZ, it is important to have little slack above the Munter, so that it takes load ASAP; otherwise, the LZ can become tight and hard to break further. The LZ lacks the auto-tending feature of the LA and JRBAH.
- The JRB Ascender Hitch (523 in Soft Bridge Mode) also works in SRT applications but is the most complex to tie. JRB Ascender is the most compact in width, and easiest to pass through a running loop in an SRT system where all the knots are pretied (see SRT Scenario 1 video).
- The Double Michoacan was JRB’s first hitch that could be used for SRT and it does work just complex to tie:
Longhorn Loop
Several of the friction hitches require the Longhorn Loop as the building block. Just like we build a Prusik knot with a Prusik loop, we need a Longhorn Loop to tie the Longhorn Agile, Longhorn Zenith, etc.
Longhorn Agile Hitch
Note that the Longhorn Hitch requires the Longhorn Hitch / Longhorn Loop (described above.) A couple of videos are below introductory video is below, but all the detail have been moved to this dedicated page:
Longhorn Zenith Hitch
The Longhorn Zenith is built using the Longhorn Loop. This is JRB’s preference for DSRT. Yes, it works for SRT, but until we get some more time on it, let’s be conservative and lean towards the Longhorn Agile for SRT.
JRB Ascender Hitch, Agile Hitch
Note that the JRB Ascender Hitch and Agile Hitch are both viable for many applications, but both were introduced BEFORE the Longhorn Agile and Longhorn Zenith. They are no longer JRB’s preference for most applications. See page:
This video demonstrates how to tie the Agile Hitch, which is built upon the Klemheist and was superseded by the Longhorn Zenith Hitch.
Longhorn Friction Shackle
This is a Friction Hitch and Soft Shackle in one. Note that the performance of this hitch differs from that of the Longhorn Agile Hitch.
Friction Hitch for a Backup
Although just about any friction hitch could be configured as a backup for a mechanical device, the most important features desired in a backup are different than those in a Hitch used as our primary attachment. The Hedden Knot is perfect for the occasion. See video for details. Note that the Hedden cannot be broken under load, so the climber must have a plan for how to to recover should the backup become engaged.
Double Meech
The Double Michoacan (Double Meech) works too!