Note: Originally, this page contained all of JRB’s favorite knots, but some have been moved to dedicated pages.
Page Contents:
Overview
There are potentially thousands of knots that we COULD use. On this page and subpages, JRB has narrowed down the list to the ones that are preferred. In addition to the the information in the Dictionary page, the following video outlines the basic knot tying concepts and terminology.
Friction Hitches
A friction hitch is a “slide and grip” knot which allows the location of attachment to be adjusted along the rope. See dedicated page:
Trunk Anchors
A trunk anchor is a knot, typically a hitch, which cinches or chokes on a trunk or spar. See dedicated page:
Fixed Loops
A fixed loop is one that is not adjustable in size. See dedicated pages:
Bends
A “bend” is a type of knot which joins two ends, and is used to:
- Tie two lines together to make a longer line
- Tie two ends of the same line together to make a closed loop.
1. Hunter’s Bend
The Hunter’s Bend (also known as the Rigger’s Bend) is strong, compact, easy to tie, easy to inspect and not impossible to untie when seeing normal load, such as those seen in low slack rope climbing applications.
2. Sliding Double or Triple Fisherman’s Knot
JRB uses the Sliding Double or Triple Fisherman’s Knot in some applications, including the “Best Friend” loop in the Garda Hitch Footloop. It can be untied by pulling one loop through, where the non-sliding version is basically impossible to untie after normal loading.
3. Water Knot
When working with webbing, a Water Knot is the standard:
Anchor Knots
Unlike a fixed loop which can move around if we tie it around an object (host), anchors are knots that cinch in place and therefore more stable. This section covers anchors to small objects like a carabiner. Anchors that we use on a tree trunk or branch (such as the Maverick Hitch, JRB Hitch, Saddle Hunter’s Hitch and JRB Cinch) are detailed on dedicated pages:
1. Scaffold or Poacher’s Knot
This Poachers and Scaffold are must-know knots and the most popular for tying to a Carabiner or Quick Link.
2. Clove, Girth, Bull hitches
Everybody should know how to tie a Clove Hitch, Girth Hitch and Bull Hitch.
3. Longhorn Hitch & Loop
The Longhorn Hitch is actually a hitch, a bend and a double sliding loop knot all in one. Tying it on our finger results in a Longhorn Loop, which is used as the basis for creating the Longhorn Agile Hitch, Longhorn Zenith Hitch, or a Longhorn Soft Shackle. The total amount of cord that is needed depends on the application. This table merely contains the MINIMUM length of the two parallel, working ends when creating a derivative friction hitch. Do not use less than these sizes as a working end.
| Cord diameter | Min Working Ends |
|---|---|
| 5mm | 10″ or 25.4 cm |
| 6mm | 12″ or 30.5 cm |
| 7mm | 14″ or 35.5 cm |
| 8mm | 16″ or 40.6 cm |
Predecessor video with Details:
4. Anchor to a Ring: Buffalo Hitch
The buffalo hitch is better when tying to a ring because it is easier to remove than a Poachers/Scaffold.
5. Anchor to Ring: Moose Hitch
If the load will be minor, the Moose Hitch is even easier to tie and untie, and is used in the creation of the JRB Cinch.
Adjustable Loops
1. Blakes Hitch Loop
Just take one end of the line and make a Blake’s hitch on the other side (instead of a bend) and we have an adjustable loop.
2. Blakes Hitch Tensioner
This gizmo is amazingly handy:
Ashley’s Book of Knots
Knot enthusiasts are encouraged to get a copy of Ashley’s Book of Knots (ABOK), first published in 1944, with several revisions over the years. It’s a masterpiece. Link: